P.L.E.A.D. Walk

Prevention, Legislation, Education and Awareness of alcohol-related Deaths

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Dale Swartzentruber, supported by his wife Martha, walked from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Washington, D.C. in 2002-2003 in order to:
   o Raise awareness of alcohol-related illnesses and tragedies
   o Raise money for MADD and the Betty Ford Center
   o Create a scrapbook of persons adversely affected by alcohol


Dale and Martha have completed their journey, but their work has just begun. Check back for updates and future plans. To read about their experiences on the road, check out the Plead Journals.

Select a week.  One   Two   Three   Four   Five   Six   Seven-Fourteen   Fifteen   Sixteen   Seventeen   Eighteen   Nineteen   Twenty   Twenty-one   Twenty-two   Twenty-three   Twenty-four   Twenty-five   Twenty-six   Twenty-seven   Twenty-eight   Twenty-nine   Thirty   Thirty-one   Thirty-two   Thirty-three   Thirty-four   Thirty-five   Thirty-six   Thirty-seven-Thirty-nine   Forty   Forty-One   Forty-two   Forty-three   Forty-four   Forty-five  

Plead Journals © 2003-2005 by Dale and Martha Swartzentruber. No reproduction is allowed without prior authorization from the authors.

July 02, 2002

Dale: It feels like I'm starting up a slippery slope, challenged by the prospect of achieving a goal, or failing. We leave Fairbanks tomorrow for the drive to Prudhoe Bay and then we'll see what I'm made of. I have this ball of excitement and fear all knotted up in my gut. Now with the PLEAD signs plastered to my door there's no place to hide, it's out in the open, no more privacy. Tonight we sleep in the Fred Meyer Parking lot, camper loaded and ready to go. One more email stop at the library tomorrow and it's north to the big P. Bay.    TOP

July 03, 2002

Dale: Rain this a.m.—lots of mud, but cleared up later on. To my surprise some of the road is surface treated and for the most part not too bad. Will stay at Marion Creek Campground tonight just past Coldfoot—nice little government campground. Tomorrow it's a 240 mile run to Pbay and then starts the good 'n slow stuff.    TOP

July 04, 2002

Dale: P. Bay at last; a day of pot holes and bone jarring washboard. We took all day to drive 250 miles, average 20-30 mph, but we're here! Walked a few miles this evening through the town part from the pipeline security gate through rows and rows of oil drilling, finding, smelling equipment. Amazing all the stuff up here, but not many campers. I think a total of 3, consequently no services for them. From here it's 100 miles of "Kansas Flat" until we hit the Brooks Range. That will test my mental mettle a bit right off the bat. I think I lost my mind somewhere between here and Dot Lake, so tomorrow I'll start looking for it.    TOP

July 05, 2002

Dale: Started out the morning with a dip in the Arctic Ocean. They said the water temp was 34 degrees; it felt like it. Put in my first 5-6 mile day from about 2pm to 8:30pm or so with a short break somewhere in there. The country is strangely beautiful. I never thought I would like flat land, but there's something different about moving through it so slowly: the views are so huge and open, dotted with pingos here and there that look like giant mushrooms. Lots of caribou herds of 3 and 4 hundred scattered here and there. One bunch came down the middle of the road to meet me and then turned off when they decided it was a little too close for comfort. We did about 15 miles today, so with Thursday's little jaunt we are about 18 or 19 miles out of Pbay. Thought I found my mind today, something cold looking and blue on the side of the road; turned out to be a pepsi can. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.    TOP

July 06, 2002

Dale: Started out raining this morning but actually was overcast most of the day, cool, just right for walking. Did about 18 miles today, which is about what I expected. My right foot along the right edge is hurting for some strange reason. It's not even where my foot hits the ground. I guess I'll have to get used to some aches and pains until I get in a little better shape. I have plenty of time to do 30 miles a day, but my body isn't ready for it yet. Hopefully by Coldfoot, I can get up to 25 or 30 we'll see. Walking lets you see subtle changes in the landscape. I noticed today about 20 miles out some bushes where before there was only grass. At about 40 miles the calf height bushes got to be man size, but still no trees. Also saw some ground squirrels at about 30 miles. Didn't see any around the coast. No Brain yet.    TOP

July 07, 2002

Dale: Saw the first ever so slight incline in the road today, so the flat land is coming to an end. There are a few hills to the west and more leafy plants. Made about 19 miles today, about what I expected this early in the trip. Foot still hurts, trying Epsom salts, algyval and tonight a magnet wrap. Tomorrow looks like construction and lots of dust. Truckers have been really great about slowing down and getting over so they don't spray me too badly. One today came pretty close and obviously was going as fast as possible to shower me–oh well, there will always be a few rear enders in this world, but for the most part everyone has been really nice. Have got to take a day off and let my foot recuperate, hopefully Tuesday. We need to go back to Pbay and refuel with some extra gas so we can make it the rest of the way to Coldfoot without having to come back. The motor home doesn't get very good mileage with all this stop and go driving. Lots of tail light and dome marker covers along the road. I should pick up everything and have a yard sale in Dot Lake to finance the trip. So far all I've collected is a nice bungy cord.    TOP

July 08, 2003

Dale: Got in 7 miles before noon, then we ran into construction so we decided to return to Pbay and refuel for the push to Coldfoot. We'll most likely have to do a 20 mile stretch without the motorhome, so want to be fresh for that– a half day today and a half day tomorrow will have to constitute our Sunday and a day off. Foot is doing better. Talked to a couple on construction workers about what I'm doing, one decided I was having a midlife crisis and said he hoped his would be an eating binge or something simple like that. Also a group of kids from Wisconsin that were in a Russian Mission working with youth at risk, were very interested in what we're doing. Took a card and web address and said they would check it out. Today was the first real hill after Pbay - about a 3 mile long fairly steep incline, got my heartrate up a bit. We're right at 60 miles out, so I'm feeling real good about our progress. I Love This Country!!    TOP

July 9, 2002

Martha: The weather at Prudhoe is much like any weather near an ocean–lots of moisture and winds; but since it's much farther north it is consistently much cooler. It was in the upper 30's and 40's during the 5 days we were there (7/4 to 7/8). We noticed quite often that the mornings were cool (cold sometimes), rainy and cloudy and often in the evenings—7 to 9 pm or so—it would get sunny and warm. So much for weather. I wish I could keep track of the many different flowers&150;mostly different shades of purple, yellow and some white. Not very tall and some so small you'd never really see them unless you were paying attention. Animals we've seen: lots of caribou, an arctic fox and a wolverine at a fresh caribou kill off the highway driving back into P.Bay 7/8 pm.; many seagulls, much larger than at Dot Lake; ravens now & then, some type of arctic terns(large w/long tail feathers) swans, geese, sparrow, some type of sandbills–beaks, long legs near the ocean.

Dale: Only got about 15 miles in today, but did 12 straight though with no break because of construction. It was a tough day because I was constantly watching for large machinery and going back and forth from one side to the other, over the bank etc. to avoid machinery. So glad to be through that stretch. Lots of rolling hills and some long flat stretches still, but more hills to climb. Talked to a lot of construction people today, some surprisingly open to the subject of alcohol abuse, also supportive, but most don't stop or say anything at all. The construction industry isn't exactly a group foundation for alcohol reform, but all in all a good bunch. One guy said I was using up my heartbeats, and only had so many. Also said I could have a heart attack out here, another one responded "there are worse ways to go". Most think I'll get eaten by a bear; almost sounds as though they hope I will. Oh well, animals at least are consistently unpredictable, but humans will hurt you a lot more often and in more, different ways. So far we haven't seen any bears though I know they are in the area. Foot is still giving me some grief.    TOP

July 10, 2003

Martha: I've been having a hard time learning to relax. You seem much more vulnerable out here, though in many ways that's not necessarily the case, just vulnerable to different things. You certainly aren't as distracted by lots of people, vehicles, convenience stores and other manmade things–these are few and very far between. At times there's been more traffic than I expected, but we've been around road construction, so that creates busyness for a long stretch. There is the fear of the unknown–nothing unusual there really, but how quickly I get comfortable with routine. There is a peacefulness about routine. I realized yesterday, too, that I was struggling with being a caretaker–will I have enough water for drinking, to do dishes and laundry; will I make the right choice of how far to leave Dale behind to walk, where to park and wait, having trouble with the motor home etc. Was very nervous about going through the construction site and am nervous about going across the mountains at Atigun Pass–whew made the mountain climbing in B.C. from Cache Creek down to Washington seem like a piece of cake. Having absolutely no facilities from Pbay to Coldfoot (240 miles) is certainly foreboding. And of course we are doing the unusual–that takes some getting used to too. Most everyone comes this direction to work or to pop in and out to say "I've been there". I would say maybe I'm not as comfortable with nature as Dale is; I tend to be much more inclined to fit in with the status quo. So once again I'm being pushed outside of that circle. But that was one reason I married Dale, although this experience certainly exceeds what I had in mind. There is a certain fear about being out there all by yourself, but there's also a real beauty and excitement.

Dale: Watched the road this a.m. kind of painted in splotches across the hills disappearing for a bit down a hill and reappearing any old place like some one took a paint brush with pale gray paint and stroked a bit here and there in the green hills. Followed close to the pipeline for 8 or 10 miles or so–massive undertaking that was. The country is so open, vast and even with the pipeline and the highway, still empty except for hills and rivers. Got in about 19 miles today; still struggling to get to 20, but tomorrow we'll reach the 100 mile point after about 5 miles. Still not halfway to Coldfoot, but soon will be. It's so nice to be in this God awesome country.    TOP

July 11, 2002

Dale: Slowly but surely we've made it to the mountains—left the Sagavaniktuk River (Sag for short) which has been our constant companion since leaving Pbay. It's paralleled the highway until today. We blasted right through the 100 milestone today and we're at about 113 from the start and in a few miles we'll be halfway to Coldfoot. Saw a little yellow butterfly today, so we're not alone. Several people stopped for a second or two to say, "are you ok?" and so far I've always said yes. I keep wanting to say that's debatable; maybe tomorrow. Gorgeous view out the back window of the camper tonight—Hawaiian green and Alaska white all together. If there's one thing I've learned so far this trip it is that TWO miles is a LONG way.    TOP

July 12, 2002

Dale: Started the morning off seeing some Dall sheep. At first I thought it was just white rocks in the lines of sediment on the mountain. It looked like a child had stuck a bunch of white kidney beans in a huge chunk of play dough. Then later when I looked the design had changed. They were all lying down, and occasionally would get up and the bean pattern would be different. I watched for a long time until they faded from sight. Also had the experience of watching the huge cloud of dust behind a truck vanish in a rain storm about a half mile in front of me. Then saw one appear behind a truck that ran out of rain into dry road. Weather was very sporadic. Did about 16 miles with some long serious hills; getting tuned up for Attigun Pass about 40 miles away. Camped tonight on top of a hill with magnificent views for 360 degrees. One of the most beautiful vistas I think I've ever seen. I haven't even tried a photo because there is no way to capture it on film.    TOP

July 13, 2002

Dale: Rained most of the day, still managed to get in almost 20 miles. Took a long break at noon to see if the rain would let up, but no luck. It was so foggy you couldn't see 100 feet ahead so I quit walking for awhile. There are lots of small creeks a foot or two wide, for a minute I thought I was in town and someone had on some rap music. One creek was making a noise that sounded exactly like a car with the windows up and a heavy drum beat. The water was being forced under a rock and the blurping sound was what I was hearing. We are in the heart of the Brooks Range tonight parked by a little creek called Holden Creek. It sounds like the beach outside. We went rock hunting tonight. The rocks are fascinating like someone took a bunch of different colored gravel and cemented it together—huge boulders with all different colored rocks: pink, red, green, black. We had to pick up a few small ones to keep. First day my foot hasn't hurt much. I told Martha I was going to name them instead of right foot, left foot like a movie sequel. I will call them Rocky and Lela. She said immediately, "You haven't found your brain."    TOP

July 15, 2002

Martha: There was a large turnout right before Holden Creek bridge. It appeared that Holden Creek had really flooded probably some spring (Dale chatted with a trucker who said that was true, though didn't mention what year). Anyway it was a beautiful spot to have a day off (July 14). There was wood around where someone had made a campfire and lots of water and Sunday most of the day was sunny and warm, so we took baths (superb!) and did a bunch of laundry, which dried fairly quickly. I scattered it out on bushes around and thought about pioneer women (as I've read about). We had a hard time not picking up too many rocks—there was such a variety and some so beautiful. Had a nice rain shower in the pm which settled the dust for walking. I saw the first robin since we left the coast. There have been seagulls all along and some type of sparrow, but mostly quiet as far as birdsongs. Mosquitoes? Oh yes they're always with us—at times worse of course. A nice breeze always helps. I'm hoping we can cross the mountain tomorrow. I will feel better having it behind us—it is awesome though. Got our 1st satellite phone call—from our son to see how we were doing. Saw lots of ground squirrels today—the first seen in a while—maybe because the road is closer to the pipeline. They seemed smaller than farther out at the coast.

Dale: Made it to the bottom of Attigun Pass (north side), did about 20 miles. Attigun is the highest highway pass on a road in AK. The mountains are so close now, no more wide open views, except straight up. Each step further into the mountains builds hope that we might actually pull this thing off, although we've barely started. I could hear Mama singing in the kitchen today, "It's a long road to freedom, a winding steep and high, but when you walk in love with the wind on you wings and cover the earth with the songs you sing, the miles fly by." Lots of company on this road!    TOP

July 16, 2002

Martha: We made it over Attigun Pass—whew am I relieved! It's been hanging over my head since we crossed it going to Pbay. At that time I couldn't imagine me driving over it—Dale was thinking to hike over and hitch hike back for the camper or drive the camper over 1st and hitch hike back to walk it, but as I drove the camper from Pbay I told myself just get it to the top, wait for Dale and catch my breath and then drive it down; but the closer I got the quicker I wanted to go from one side to the other, which I did—1st gear all the way and PTL no tractor trailers or vehicles the whole way. I was sorry not to be able to relax and enjoy the scenery more, but I couldn't handle it. It's quite a view on either side at the bottom though—close to 2 miles climbing and 2 miles descending on a 12% grade. About 5 miles from the pass, coming off the Chandalar Shelf, there's another 10% grade descent and close to the bottom the first trees—cottonwood and spruce and maybe some birch. Also, at the bottom of the hill at a pull out, the first litter barrel since Pbay. What a beautiful day—nice breeze, warm and sunny with enough cloud cover to keep it from becoming too hot. We have found time to read books again, which is fun. I try to get out and walk some with Dale. Feels good, but sometimes the road is narrow, hilly and there are blind curves. Getting close to breaking the 200 mile mark, but still over 300 miles to Fairbanks.

Dale: Coming through the mountains after Attigun the landscape is increasingly anticipating trees—bushes taller than I am and then they're following the little wet drainages farther and farther up the mountains. All at once there's a tree fully 6 inches in diameter: a cottonwood. A half mile later there's a 6 inch spruce and immediately on the hill a whole grove of spruce. It feels like a different world in just a mile or two and both sides of the road are lined with trees. (Because of the hills you never see it coming) There's actually someplace to hide. We're still over 100 miles above the Arctic Circle. Only made 15 miles today, but a lot of steep miles. Talked to some tourists from New Mexico. They saw our sign and told a story about someone in New Mexico whose grandchildren were killed by a drunk driver. Beautiful Day!    TOP

July 17, 2002

Martha: Heard lots of chickadees singing in the trees this a.m. The suddenness of the trees and forests were surprising. I thought it would be much more gradual. It was actually almost hot last night at bedtime (@10pm)—first time not putting blankets/sheets on right away and even left the windows open awhile. Cooled off wonderfully later though. We camped at Dietrich River the halfway point on the Dalton Highway—mile marker 207 both ways. I try to stop every 2 - 4 miles ahead of Dale when possible.

Dale: Broke the back of the 200 mile mark today and did 23 miles total. Mountains are still stunning on this side of Attigun—some shine like they're wet, but it's only the slate rock. They looked like a man's back gleaming with sweat on a hot day. Then depending on the angle of the sun it almost looked like a light dusting of snow, but it was far too hot for that. Was fascinated by Snowden Mountain—watched it come into view, then disappear behind another huge mountain, then reappear as I passed the larger one in front. It's so nice to see all that in slow motion. I tried to chronicle it with a series of photos, but they never do it justice. Off to the west there's a huge spire jutting up and leaning like the Tower of Pisa, only it's a huge slab and not round. Thirty some miles to Coldfoot.    TOP

July 18, 2002

Dale: The landscape has turned a little more common, although there are still lots of nice mountains. There is always the Billipede slithering along here and there reminding you that man has accomplished a major engineering feat in this vast wilderness. Dwarfed by the mountains you somehow know that with one blow, nature could annihilate it. So far it still carries its load of black gold along. Tomorrow civilization, phones, electricity and all that. I'm strangely reluctant to end this part of the trip, though it feels good to have it behind us—a real confidence booster.    TOP

July 19, 2002

Dale: Coldfoot gave me a hot foot today. It was a scorcher for this neck of the woods—probably 80 or more. People in a van stopped and talked about what we're doing. Said her niece started a MADD chapter in her school—took several years to convince the powers that be to agree, but they finally did. The lady gave me 2 bucks for coffee—my first contribution! Talked to a guy from the Netherlands today. His car broke down about 10 miles out of Coldfoot and says he'll probably just leave it here and give it to the guy for towing it. He has a bike to ride to Frbks. Took a card and showed some interest in what we're doing. The Netherlands has a .02 bac level for driving—that's what we need for the USA!    TOP

July 20, 2002

Martha: Helped the Coldfoot economy a bit—filled up with gas ($2.359 gal.), propane (@$3.00 gal), camped there ($25.00/night, showers included, dump station is a separate price) —supposed to have electricity, but it wouldn't work, but filled up with potable water. Had blueberry pie w/ice cream ($4.25/each) and breakfast buffet this a.m. ($9.95/each) —a good buffet—the melon (watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew) was especially delicious. We'll no longer say 'when we get to Coldfoot'—that milestone is behind us. Had quite a thunderstorm last night, but we were at the edge of it so didn't get the full force of thunder, lightning or rain. Was good to talk to some family (on land line phone). Mailed our daughter a piece of driftwood from the Arctic Ocean. A beautiful day again—warm with a nice breeze. I walked a steep hill back to Dale, who was still recovering from meeting 2 moose each w/a baby, though not at the same time —his heart rate was just beginning to calm down.

Dale: Got a little taste of what it's like to face a moose without a gun. Mama and baby ran in front of me and stopped and gave me the eyeball—two of them in less than a mile. One was too close for comfort, but I backed off and she went in the woods. Moose are almost as scary as bears, especially when they have calves, which both of these did—just past Coldfoot about a mile. We're at the South Fork of the Koyukuk River tonight. Will take tomorrow off and maybe try a little fishing. Great weather again today.     TOP

July 22, 2002

Dale: Gobblers Knob tonight and another outstanding view. Every night we get a different one; feels like we're a couple of gypsies. Nineteen miles today, finishing with a 3 mile hill—heart got a good workout. More people today—construction again. One guy said, "So what exactly is your cause?" When I explained, I could tell he wasn't duly impressed. I was looking for some comment, but got nothing. Word has gotten out and now most people say "So you're headed for D.C., huh?" At the beginning it was "Where're you headed?" I'm curious what happens when we hit Fairbanks. Guess we'll find out soon enough. Miss the grandbabies terribly—can't wait to see them! Don't know if I can get out of Dot Lake or not.     TOP

July 23, 2002

Dale: Will spend the night at the Arctic Circle campground. Only did about 17 miles, lots of hills—long, gradual, never-ending hills. Looked back over Gobblers Knob as I was leaving this a.m. and watched the Brooks Range fade into the smoky mists—I'll miss them, they were a blast. Now we're in rolling Virginia-like hills. Broke 300 miles today—that's almost like Charlottesville to Spartanburg. Our lives are now centered around how many days it takes to get somewhere—makes a dog team seem speedy. One foot in front of the other!!     TOP

July 24, 2002

Martha: Took pictures of us at the Arctic Circle July 23, but the camera had July 24 on it, so was wrong. In the apprehension and fear of getting across Attigun Pass, I did not recall that we went through so many steep ones before the Brooks Range. I just have to climb the hills slowly—10mph in 1st gear and hope no one comes behind and gets stressed out going that slowly. This 9% grade (Beaver Slide) which was 2 - 3 miles, I didn't have any competition either way. About ½ to 1 mile from the top, there's a road sign out said 'ONE LANE'—just great! I'm in awe of the truck drivers going over this road how many times a week. I'm always remembering the time Mama was taking us somewhere in PA, the road going over rolling hills and the brakes gave out on the car (don't remember what it was back in the early/mid 50's) but she managed to make a left hand curve into someone's (friends or relatives?) lane that went steeply uphill which slowed her down enough to come to a stop at their house. It has been very smoky the last several days—not sure where the fire is—seems to be southwest somewhere. Have mixed feelings about getting to Fairbanks. I guess it's really beginning to sink in about the undertaking of this venture.

Dale: More long tedious uphill climbs, 17 miles again today. Camped tonight at Finger Rock—huge rock points toward Fairbanks they say. One of the benefits of walking is seeing everything, truck organs too numerous to mention, but today I found a snow white fireweed, something I have never seen before and only one plant in that area. I cut a piece to try and start some from seed. I was totally blown away and amazed by it. I want to talk to a botanist about it, see if there is such a thing as an albino plant. Second time today one of the drivers of a vanload of tourists stopped and chatted. He's getting to be a regular. One tourist asked where to send donations, so I gave him a card. After studying it for a bit he said, "After you get through with this you should work on shortening your name." Less than 100 miles left on the Dalton after today and 42.5 to the Yukon River. I still can't believe I've made it this far.     TOP

July 25, 2002

Martha: Had fresh blueberries in our pancakes this a.m. We picked about a quart close to Arctic Circle Inn—it was just blue with big delicious berries. We camped on top of Finger Mountain, which was fairly windy last night, but about 2am the wind started howling and rocking the camper—felt like we were going to be blown away. Clouds were rolling in and more smoke. Now down the road 4 miles it is sunny and the wind is blocked by trees, so it feels more reasonable—am glad to get off the mountain top today . . . Lots of wind all day today—mostly west, sometimes somewhat NW. Not only climbing hills, but having to watch and compensate for the strong, gusty wind made for a brutal walk today. I did not walk—I read and did some paperwork.

Dale: Hills again about ½ the day—towards the end it was more normal. Did just over 19 miles and it feels like it. Anticipating Fairbanks, not really looking forward to all the traffic, but will be nice to check email and get that milestone behind us.     TOP

July 26, 2002

Dale: Made it close to the Yukon River Bridge—4 miles. Staying at a little place called Hot Spot Café. One trucker today going up a really steep hill, which slowed him down to almost my pace, reached out his hand and smiled like he wanted to give me a tow. Another lady stopped and said, "you need help?" and I said no I'm ok. She gave me this unconvinced look that said if you say so, but she wasn't buying it. Saw a wolf at the airstrip before Hot Spot. At first I thought it was a dog, but then he walked off into the woods and didn't act at all like a dog. We watched each other for a while before he left.     TOP

July 27, 2002

Dale: Took the day off today. Was really tired after all the hills and the Hot Spot hamburgers were delicious. Found out the two sisters that were running the place (one owned it) had their father killed by a couple of drunk teenagers; all three involved in the accident were killed. The one gal's daughter was 4 and she crawled up in my lap and made herself right at home. After she'd been there a while, back and forth bringing toys and stuff, her mom says you better go do what I told you to do. She kept hanging around and sitting on my lap. Pretty soon I said you better go do what your mom wanted you to do. She still sat and sat, so after a bit I asked "what did your mom want you to do?" She looked at me kind of sheepish and said "get off the people." Then she got down and just stood there. Then she said, "I'm not bad, I'm good." I said, "Yes, you are very good." People are so wonderful, so universal, so precious, as is life. Which is why I walk—for life.     TOP

July 28, 2002

Martha: Mostly warm sunny day with scattered showers—made for muddy road and pull outs at places.

Dale: Walked across the Yukon River today—beautiful view from the top. The bridge has a 6% grade, which is interesting. Talked to a guy from Stevens Village about alcohol issues. One thing for sure that we've educated people on in this country is that prohibition doesn't work. I wished later I would have said prohibition is the only thing that works for a recovering alcoholic. It may have to be self imposed, but it is the only solution. Even then it is not a cure, but an ongoing process. Also talked to some people at the bridge that used to live in Scottsville. They own a business there and have a son that lives in Dry Creek near Dot Lake. Still lots of hills, but more gradual and more traffic the closer we get to the Elliot Hwy.     TOP

July 29, 2002

Martha: The road has been more narrow, lots of sharp curves and blind hills so I haven't been out walking much and miss it. The part of the road that runs through BLM property had waysides set up every so often with toilets and bear proof garbage barrels, and large areas to camp many times. Overall the road seemed to be better but that also could have something to do with the terrain. We have very little level areas these last days. Lots of big trees/forests, too, as well as more vehicle traffic—the large trucks are a constant and I am happy to be parked when they go by. Talked to T's (from Dry Creek) mother at the motel/restaurant at the Yukon river bridge. Didn't realize they were there. She remembered a Mennonite family that used to come sing at Fox Memorial Baptist in Scottsville back in the 60's (The Millers) and I remembered Mama and Daddy talking about that when they visited us in Dot Lake in '99 and that we went to Dry Creek to visit T who still lives there. He built a new beautiful house, and we helped him carry some oak tongue-and-groove board into his place that he had to plane before putting on their living room floor. He had salvaged them from somewhere and guess he had to do a lot of work with them to make the finished product he wanted. His parents live in Delta, but from April to November they are at the bridge. It is a BLM lease arrangement. They get many travelers from the Yukon River as well as the Dalton Highway. Tried to call our daughter several times—no luck. Sure miss the grandbabies.

Dale: Passed a big black ant headed north on the Dalton, right in the main truck track. We passed like two strangers in the night. I wondered what in the world he was doing there—he probably wondered the same about me. The results of staying there would be equally disastrous for us both with gazillion ton trucks flying by. Not sure of his fate, but the prognosis was not good. Talked to a guy that read our sign then came back later. He is a recovering alcoholic, said he's been sober for 12 years with the help of AA. Expressed appreciation for what we were doing and said he thought he could drum up some support in Texas with his group. Said we would hear from him. That was a real boost. I was just telling Martha yesterday I needed something like that and voilà today there it was. Tomorrow should be the last day on the Dalton—major milestone, feels like we should celebrate, but not sure how. Walk another mile maybe? All in all a great day except for some guy in a pickup trying to run over me—that was just before the guy from AA showed up, so he offset that mess a bit. There's one or two on every road.     TOP

July 30, 2002

Dale: More hills—haven't walked any level ground for very long in over a week. Finally finished the Dalton Hwy—over 400 miles. I was so excited about the white fireweed thinking I had found something special, but two days later I picked up an Anchorage paper and on the front was a headline "Fire on Ice" with a picture of white fireweed—go figure.     TOP

August 01, 2002

Martha: July 31 was a different day—got off to a bit of a late start since we were later going to bed. It has been really hot (upper 80's) during the days, so the cool of the evenings are easier to walk and we wanted so much to get off of the Dalton. The first turnout on the Elliot was at least 2 miles, but fortunately Dale found a gravel pit a little before that was a really nice camping spot—off the road and quieter. Then we got caught in road construction—a pilot car picked up Dale about a mile from where I was waiting (North Country Mercantile Store) and wouldn't let him walk through the paving area (about 5 miles). We hung out there awhile trying to decid what to do and finally drove past that area and Dale walked to the Tolovana River where I had parked at a BLM wayside with outhouse and litter barrel. We just crashed there for the rest of the afternoon, since it was hot and not much else ahead, plus we didn't want to back track too far. Finally, around 7:30pm the road crew quieted down so we went back to where Dale was picked up and got through the whole construction stretch; then went on another 5 miles to the top of a long winding hill. While waiting for Dale I met the BushwackersJ—J and V. They were cleaning up a pile of asphalt into their pickup to take a few miles down to their place to fix up around their house. They were concerned that we not stay there because the pull out was on a grizzly path and people had seen a grizzly and black hanging around. The construction workers had not been very careful about food and bear attractions either, so we went another 2 miles or so farther to their neck of the woods and camped in the Northern Lights School yard (school has been closed for 2 yrs) in Joy, Alaska below their house on the hill. After all that and visiting we finally got to bed around 1 or 2 am and slept hard til almost 8am. I heard the story of V's heart attack/miracles while waiting for Dale and when we visited this am we got the story of the last visit with J's mom/dad/sister etc. as well as a tour of their place. They had told me last night, too, about how they moved around 1998 to this location from down in the Tolovana River area and the way the Lord worked that all out. Was an amazing sto8ry. Both of them were alcoholics for years—V into drugs also and they said they are now missionaries and hope to build a chapel on their property eventually.     TOP

August 02, 2002

Dale: Haven't gotten to the journal lately; walking late. The 'pilot car lady' as she called herself gave me a nice fluorescent orange vest to wear and filled me in on all her "12 sandwich wonder bread eating" trucker horror stories. She was a real riot and very sympathetic with our cause. The bushwacker ladies are the kind of people that will be friends for life after one encounter. We really enjoyed visiting with them. The road is wide, newly asphalted and easy walking except for the hills and double guard rails, which I generally jump over when traffic is coming. It's not a good feeling having a semi coming at you on a sharp curve with guard rails on both sides of the road, so I play leap frog with them. Two days to Fairbanks.     TOP

August 04, 2002

Dale: Took the day off yesterday; swam in the Chantanika River in a State Campground that was closed, but full of campers and boat trailers at the boat launch. Walked the Steese Expressway this afternoon—wide shoulders, full car width. Even though there was lots of traffic, it felt safer than anything I've been on since Prudhoe Bay. Another close encounter with a moose today, had to wait on her awhile. Tonight we're back in the Fred Meyer parking lot where we were about a month ago to the day July 2 on the way to Prudhoe Bay and we've done 500 miles in one month exactly—July 4 to August 4.     TOP

August 05, 2002

Dale: Walked Fairbanks to North Pole about 14 miles—lots of traffic, but wide shoulder to walk on again. Yesterday on the Steese some guy yelled "Hi, Dale!" I saw him several times after that, he was in a flue dump truck hauling gravel, but I never did figure out who it was. Will spend most of the day tomorrow in Fairbanks doing email and trying to see if the News Miner wants to do a story. Have only gotten the answering machine so far. Hopefully, by Wednesday we can do some serious walking again and get closer to Dot Lake. Got some new shoes to try; have a huge blister on my right foot, doesn't really bother me a lot. It got started in between my toes which is kind of strange, now the fluid seems to be going everywhere. Walking Fairbanks is the PITS!     TOP

August 06, 2002

Dale: Slept in a little this a.m. in the Fred Meyer lot. Went to visit Jackie Vogel, took some flowers and saw Mary and Celestine. Did some more shopping, found a lap top for a reasonable price, a Dell refurbished deal, and ended up spending the night in Fairbanks again. Also did email and found a message from KTUU Channel 2 News that sounds like they want to do a story on the walk.     TOP

August 07, 02

Dale: Finished up our Fairbanks shopping, went back to the computer store to figure out some things. Found out the guy at the computer store is a recovering alcoholic. He supports MADD and was very helpful with the laptop, went far beyond the call of duty. Also, found me a new printer which is normally about $300 and let me have it for $50—that was a surprise. I visited with him about the walk for quite a while, very supportive. Walked from N Pole to Moose Creek this evening, about 5 miles, just to get out of town a little more. Saw a pigeon walking the road in the same direction I was going. Thought for while he had a flat wing and I was going to catch him; gained on him for a while, but then he flew away. Guess I'm destined to pass ants only. Hoping to get in a full 20 mile day tomorrow and make it into Salcha.     TOP

August 11-October 1, 2002

Journals for these weeks have yet to be transcribed. We hope to have them online soon.     TOP

April 20, 2003

Dale: Finally back and ready to start down the Cassiar Highway 37) tomorrow. Has been fun to see all the places I walked as we drove back to Junction 37 on the Alaska Highway. It's amazing how many little things you remember that happened when you see a specific spot. "Oh there's where that guy lost his gas cap and I went and gave it to him," says Martha; we rested there for awhile and I walked over in the woods to have some chronic relief. We could place almost every place we camped and many places we had stopped to rest. I am still amazed by how long it takes to drive what I can walk in a day; it still doesn't seem possible. Tomorrow another huge challenge—446 miles of the Cassiar. I'm excited and can't wait to get going again. Will try and ease back into a schedule so I don't ruin anything right off the bat. Should be better than the start in Prudhoe Bay, since I've got at least about 1300 miles of experience.     TOP

April 21, 2003

Dale: Waited at Junction 37 for the gas to open and finally went to Watson Lake for gas (14 miles farther on the Alaska Highway). Didn't get started until about 9am and did 6 miles til 11:30—snowed like crazy all morning. Then after about 12:30, I left in the snow again and did 10 miles straight through to Blue Lakes. Finally quit snowing, but it rained this afternoon. Finally got a little sun about 6pm and ended up doing about 22 miles for the first day back in the saddle. Having to trade shoes around again and finally got a combination of insoles and shoes that seems to be working. Back to the original Prudhoe Bay pair with new insoles. Had a B.C. provincial truck stop, but when I went over to him he said, "I'm not checking on you, I just stopped to drive a stake." Thanks a lot!! Another old guy—looked to be about 90—stopped and when I said I was ok, he clapped his hands and said oh good. Seemed delighted not to have to mess with me.     TOP

April 22, 2003

Martha: Couldn't believe the first day of walking started with a serious snowstorm. The 2 days traveling down from Dot Lake were just beautiful and sunny—some rain/snow squalls now and then. Though the countryside is wild and rugged, there's a certain peacefulness of having a vehicle pass only once an hour or so. It was cold this am—Dale thought maybe 15 or 20. We probably should have started the heater, but got walking instead. I was able to find areas to park every 2 to 4 miles, so took the opportunity to walk back to Dale each time—was warmer than bundled up in a sleeping bag in the RV. Now the sun has warmed it up—what a treat! We're happy for the sun now, but in several months we'll be looking for places out of the sun. Our water is nice and cold now and later will be warm when the temps change. The fridge in the RV is great though, so that will help. I was dragging my feet leaving our cozy cabin in Dot Lake; having a hard time to leave the grandbabies, too, knowing it will be a very long time before we see them again. Out on the road there are always so many uncertainties—where to park (the milepost helps, but this section there's many miles between many turnouts/rest areas), where to camp, where to get fuel, water, etc. It is a treat to find a good place to park that isn't full of snow or mud and is fairly level and when it's cold if the sun can come in the back window—wow! It's also a treat to find something as simple as a litter barrel. My favorite treat is being able to walk back and find Dale and return to the camper with him.

Dale: Quite chilly this morning, probably good we didn't come any earlier. Spring seems to be taking its time although I did see robins today and the grouse were doing their spring mating drums. Saw some grass that was almost green when I washed the road dust and winter grime off during one of my chronic relief stops, but you still can't see green as a general color from a distance. I was whistling the tune to an old hymn today and for a split second and a couple notes I could hear Mamas whistle. Not sure if she's following or if I just sound a little like her. Some sore feet today—did about 24 miles, but am feeling it tonight. At the tail end I did 10 straight through so that stretched my endurance a little. Tomorrow!!     TOP

April 23, 2003

Dale: Gorgeous day today—sunny, warm, white snow-capped Cassiar Mountains to look at all day. People still look at me with that bald-faced incredulity, sort of the same look as the grouse when I walk up on one along the road. I think it's a look that's universal—any creature understands it. Got to the sleepy town of Good Hope today—sits right in Good Hope Lake; sort of like Dot Lake—one store with P.O. and groceries, showers, laundry, gas on a highway with an average of about 20 - 30 cars a day, a lot of which is local. One trailer-looking plywood shack had a fancy neon OPEN sign, but not a clue as to what for. I wanted to check, but it was obviously only for locals, so I left well enough alone. About 3 miles from the end of the day, I heard what sounded like the opening initial rumble of thunder, but discovered it was rock slides up on the side of the mountain. I tried to see movement, but could only hear it. You could see huge slides and lots of noise, but only a little dust now and then. I kept thinking that with all the noise I should certainly be able to see movement, but I never did. It went on for about an hour and then slowed down and stopped. I wasted a lot of time studying and listening, so only made about 20 miles again. Anyway I'm averaging over 20 for the first 3 days; much better than Prudhoe Bay days. Still looking forward to doing 25 consistently. Cassiar Mountains are gorgeous; really just got into them today. More snow melted; little grass starting here and there and lots of running water everywhere. The lakes are bare of snow, but still thick ice, which is getting rotten and about ready to break up. Wonderful time of year in the North.     TOP

April 24, 2003

Dale: Beautiful day again; a little overcast in the am, but sun was beautiful all afternoon and evening. Watched a motor home go by a grouse about 10 feet away and the grouse didn't even flinch. However, when I was 100 feet away it flew off into the woods. I saw evidence a few miles later that he definitely had a reason to fear the motor home—lots of feathers. Heard a snow avalanche and actually saw a little of it; very strange sound, much different than the rocks. Longest day of the walk today—27.2 miles for about a 23 a day average for the first four days. A lot better then I expected, now we'll see if I can maintain it.     TOP

April 25, 2003

Dale: Spring officially arrived today—a mosquito bit me on the ear! Nice hot day—got a good sunburn. Saw fresh bear tracks this morning; looked very fresh, but fortunately didn't see it. Walked out of the beautiful Cassiar mountains today and arrived at Dease Lake. The town of Dease Lake is still about 25 miles away. Will try and do that tomorrow. I did 27.4 miles today and I am not feeling too bad. Getting the same blisters on my feet I had last year, but am walking a lot more per day. Last year it took about 7 days to do 113 miles and this year we did 120 miles in 5 days so we're a little faster starting off. Still looking for that first 30 mile day.     TOP

April 26, 2003

Dale: Another gorgeous day—saw a rainbow around the sun a little after noon —complete 360 degree rainbow in a huge circle around the sun. It's supposed to mean something, but I can't remember what. Robins everywhere, you can hardly walk 100 feet without seeing a whole load of them. Also saw a rabbit in the intermediate stage between brown and white. Just had a smattering of brown on his back and blended beautifully with the dead leaves and splotches of snow. Passed a pedestrian going the same direction, but on the opposite side of the road. A native guy with a little more than he should have had of what I'm walking about. Talked to him awhile and tried to see what he'd say about the bears. Told him I'd seen fresh tracks and he said they won't bother you as long as you aren't afraid of them. Probably some of the best bear advice I've had on the trip. I passed him after a short chat, but then he went by in the back of a pickup, so he still beat me to town. Dease Lake, beautiful scenery, Cassiar is a highway everyone should drive—amazing. Taking a day off tomorrow—feeling the need for it. Feet are calling for it, legs are begging for it.     TOP

April 27, 2003

Dale: Nice day off, although I did walk 5 miles just to get out of Dease Lake and be ready to go Monday. Had a good visit with the guy at the Motel where we stayed. Discussed issues around alcohol and alcohol abuse. Had an interesting experience just a few miles out of Dease Lake—saw a couple cars parked right on the road and kind of wondered what was going on. The little creek along the road was just full of water cress, which I don't remember ever seeing this far north (although the climate is beginning to be a little milder here). As I was coming up on the vehicles I saw a nice garden area and several people working on it, so I stopped and asked about the water cress. They said there was a hot springs there and the water temp is 57 degrees year round and keeps the ground warm. They were digging last years potatoes which looked just like new potatoes, hard with no spots or rot. He said the ground doesn't freeze usually and only a couple inches if at all, so they are able to get an early start in the spring. We will sleep right next to the Tanzilla River—it sounds so peaceful and soothing as it rustles along behind us. Have some pain in my hip. Hope it's gone by morning. Went over a steep bank to give a semi some extra room and pulled something. Beautiful day again today—snow is almost melted here, except in the river where there's still quite a bit snow/ice.     TOP

April 28, 2003

Dale: Nice long climb this a.m. to Gnats Pass, about 4,200 feet—nice open plateau up on top for awhile, also passed two lakes upper and lower Gnat. Ended the day with a long descent to the Stikine River and camped by it tonight. Outhouse with seat only and no walls—nice rustic touch. Saw some green dandelion shoots and also some small fireweed for the first time today. Right after we parked here, three horses trotted behind the camper. I could see on the way in here where they had been eating along the road. Beautiful day, beautiful spot tonight—lots of snow up in the pass and hardly any here.     TOP

April 29, 2003

Dale: Had to try out the open uncloseted out house this morning; quite a view to the river. While I was having my morning chronic relief, a grouse walked up the trail, meandered around a bit then walked to within about 6 feet of where I was sitting, looked up as if to say "oh, it's occupied" and then squatted and made his deposit on the leaves right next to me. I have a witness not to the bird, but Martha saw the turd. Camped by the Kluachow Lake tonight with a beautiful view of the mountains as well. This is such a gorgeous area; can't believe it's not better known. We have about 90 miles to the next services so we're in for another long haul—hopefully Bell II by Saturday.     TOP

April 30, 2003

Dale: Another gorgeous day with unbelievable scenery; have had no rain or snow since the first day out, when it did both. Crossed the half way mark on the Cassiar; making good time, about 27 miles again today. Camped in no man's land at the Natadegleen Lake trail head about 30 miles south of Iskut.     TOP

May 01, 2003

Martha: We were serenaded to sleep last night by a robin—was singing til 9:30 - 10 pm when I fell asleep. Then about 5 am I heard it singing again until we left around 6:40. I have noticed so many birds along the highway—I guess especially where the snow has melted—always so busy. They wake early and are going late at night—the days are long. Still get cool at night—puddles with ice though not freezing as hard. We hope the snowstorm that got dumped in Calgary doesn't travel here—we are enjoying the sunny days, though has been warm for Dale out there all the time. We had a mouse in our "house" Monday morning. Tried unsuccessfully to kill it or chase it out. I left the front door open hoping to entice it out and since we didn't see it anymore thought we succeeded. But the nocturnal little bugger was scurrying around again when we were trying to sleep and Dale finally successfully removed it—YES! It was so cute, but we absolutely could not share our space with it.

Dale: Walked into the temperate zone today—the trees just changed almost immediately after crossing the Burrage river. There are lots of hemlock and red cedar already, but the weather doesn't really seem all that much different, although there is less snow, but we've also been traveling for almost 2 wks. People don't stop as much in BC. So far 2 BC cars—one guy said "what you doing; walkin down the highway?" One Alaska car today stopped at Martha, but not for me and a few days ago something which is a first for the trip—a semi stopped and asked if I was ok; also Alaska plates and a sticker on the back that said "it's not a choice, it's a child". Independent trucker almost surely. The guy that stopped said to Martha "You need a ride?" She said no she was looking for me. He said "well you are kind of in the middle of nowhere". He had driven by and then several miles down the road decided to come back. Still doing about 25 miles a day and not feeling too exhausted, but 27 leaves me a little frazzled, so we're sticking to 25 pretty much.     TOP

May 2, 2003

Martha: Had a south wind (headwind for Dale) Wednesday night—brought in a bunch of clouds and heard rain on the camper roof Thursday morning. Looked like it could rain most of the morning, but then a north wind came along and blew the clouds away. Brought the sun back, but the wind is COLD—good to have it at the back at least for Dale. I feel a real difference when I walk north to meet Dale with the wind in my face and then turn and walk south with the wind at my back. Lots of new shoots of a variety of plants all along the road.

Dale: Trees are getting huge; can't believe the size so quickly. Also the lakes are ice free already, just a couple days ago at Iskut they were solid ice. I thought I'd get to see some break-up, but they are free of ice already. Saw the first clover just sprouting, making the ground green; by afternoon just 15 miles or so later, it was already 3 to 4 inches long; hard to believe. Narrow winding dusty gravel road today - scary for me and for Martha in the RV. Camped tonight by the Ningunsaw river where it joins Ogilvie Creek - surrounded by snow covered mountains.     TOP

May 3, 2003

Dale: Walked along the Ningunsaw River most of the day; wind blew like crazy most of the day sometimes in front, sometimes behind. It was cold all day, at about 32 I'm sure, because I saw icicles hanging off a truck—little higher elevation, so there's some snow again. I still can't believe how huge the trees are already; it looks like the woods around Granite Falls. Some cottonwoods are 4 feet in diameter and the evergreens are at least 3 feet and some over 100 feet tall. Hard to believe that big a climate change in so short a distance, however it was like that on the north slope, too, when we went from no trees at all to trees in a matter of a half mile or so. Spent the night at Bell II, a resort lodge for heliskiing. They have soapstone stoves from TuliKivi in the lodge as well as the chalets. Beautiful place in a gorgeous setting (but a little pricey for us). Nothing else much out here—phones are all satellite.     TOP

May 4, 2003

Dale: Day off—read, slept, ate out at Bell II.     TOP

May 5, 2003

Dale: Someone said this a.m. they had seen 15 bears coming in to Bell II Meziadan last night, so I was a little spooky all day. However, I saw no bears and no tracks. I did see some real leaves and a couple little yellow flowers of some kind. The robins here are huge—about big enough to eat. Did 28.5 miles today—longest day so far. Not feeling too bad, but I'm fresh from a day off. Still trying to figure out shoes and insoles.

Martha: Temperatures were cold at Bell II. They still had not opened RV spots, because snow hadn't all melted. Both nights (Saturday and Sunday) there were several campers in their parking lot, however, just as we were.     TOP

May 6, 2003

Dale: Rather tough day today—long 7 or 8 mile hill that wouldn't quit; guess I was a little pooped from the long day yesterday. Also, I'm having some blisters on my heel, I think from doubling up insoles. Only got in about 24.3 miles today, not quite to Meziadan Junction like I'd hoped, but we should still make Kitwanga by the weekend. Lots of snow here again and some of the lakes are full of ice. Went from flowers and leaves on the trees back to no flowers, lots of snow and no leaves. Quite a dramatic change in such a short distance. Crossing the Bell Irving bridge, all of a sudden I realized there were white and yellow lines on the road—felt like civilization—haven't seen that since leaving the Alcan.     TOP

May 7, 2003

Dale: Finally straggled in to Meziadan Junction this morning and got started on the trip to Kitwanga. Started seeing bear scat at the Nass River and then about 2 miles from Meziadin Store, I walked up on a little black bear. At first I thought it was a piece of road dirt so started across the road to see what it was, then realized it was a bear so did a 180, went across and down the bank on the other side and around. He was grazing and didn't even see me until I was a little past, then he looked at me but never really paid any attention. About 2 miles farther I came up on two more—one on my side and one right across from it, so I had nowhere to go. I stopped awhile and the one on my side went up the bank and kind of wandered around a little, but the one on the other side just stayed right on the edge of the road and kept looking at me and not really moving away so I was a little leary of it. Finally a car stopped and asked if I saw the bear, but the bear never moved. The car left and a huge truck came by and he still stayed right on the side of the road. Then a log truck came and stopped right beside it and it still wouldn't move, so he blasted his air horn twice loud and long and he finally ran off in the woods. The driver offered me a ride, said he stopped because he didn't like the way the bear was eyeballing me. I was grateful and relieved to see it go. The other bear ran off into the woods when he saw me so that was nice. Sounds like there will be more of them tomorrow.     TOP

May 8, 2003

Saw a little bear again first thing this morning, but he scooted away with a little help from Martha and the horn. Later on in the day another one crossed the road in front of me, but was traveling and not eating like the ones yesterday. Had to think how in the '70s I used to spend hours trying to sneak up on them to get close enough for a shot, now with no gun I can walk up and whack them in the behind and they won't move off the road. Heard a strange sound coming from one of the high voltage poles today. At first I thought it was the wind tweaking the insulators, then thought maybe it sounded like a strange woodpecker. It was a strange little woodpecker pecking on the metal cap of the pole that was there to protect the top from water. What some birds won't do for fun! More flowers out, no snow, lots of grass, leaves and Bear SCAT! Also, saw the first 2 bikers of the season and got offered a ride by some guy in a car with BC plates.     TOP

May 9, 2003

Dale: Started off today again with a bear this morning. He was down a bank and on my side of the road, so I just went to the other side out of sight and got by ok. Also had a coyote walk to meet me right down the white line on my side of the road. Then after the 'what are you doing here' look he went back down the bank and watched me from the edge of the woods, so I stopped and made a dog calling noise to him and he kept cocking his head back and forth trying to figure it out and then all at once bolted into the woods. Had a couple guys stop to ask for gas today. They were almost out and saw our red gas can on the roof and decided to stop. Couldn't believe they are recovering alcoholics and the one guy has a company that goes around and does counseling in native communities. He had just come from Alaska and Bethel and also some villages along the Cassiar. Was interested in the walk and said he'd put something on his website about us. What are the odds of that? After I left those guys there was another bear which walked out and a semi came by right at that moment, blasted on his horn and sent it back in the woods—that was nice of him, since it was a huge black bear and had walked out almost directly across from me before I ever knew it was there. Every mile I ask myself, can I do this again tomorrow, then I sleep, get up, eat and say o well might as well try it again and before I know it, it is evening and another 25 miles is behind me. Such is life.     TOP

May 10, 2003

Dale: Only one bear today, a medium size black that took a while to move on. There was no traffic and I made noises and put my back pack on my head to look larger and he finally went in the woods always with that look like the people in a lot of the cars - "you don't belong here". It is strange the relationship you have with certain drivers that you see everyday for weeks, like the truckers that will blow there horn each time, you know them, but never talk to them. Also the guy that stopped to chase the bear off the road, would beep at me when he went by. Today is the last day on the Cassiar Highway and I'm kind of elated but sad to say good by to it. From here on out it is more civilization and cars. At one point coming in to Kitwanga there were cars on my right almost constantly for about 20 minutes and then it just stopped. I hadn't seen that many cars on the whole Cassiar. I thought I'd gone to sleep and woke up on I 95 in D.C. There are also fences and houses and cows and horse all in the lasst 5 miles coming to Kitwanga. It's like the gateway to the warm climate and masses of people. Weather is gorgeous, leaves all out, grass green and being mowed. Spending the night at the Clean, Green and Serene Cassiar RV park—beautiful place and really a treat to have all the amenities. The Cassiar has been an awesome road with unprecedented vistas and wild places. It is a paradise for anyone that loves the wilderness and wide open spaces.     TOP

May 11, 2003

Dale: Day off—yesterday and today I think are the first days we haven't had frost since leaving at Junction 37. From here on it should be real spring, although we could have some freak snow storms or some such craziness, although I think spring has been late enough we may avoid that. It feels unbelievably good just to be off my feet for a day. They are pretty well blistered, seems worse than last year, probably because I'm doing more miles consistently. Last year we averaged about 120 miles a week and so far this year we're doing about 150. Doesn't sound like much difference, but my feet feel it. I'm still thinking I could do 30 with a really good pair of shoes, if there is such a thing—I'm beginning to wonder.     TOP

May 12, 2003

Dale: Three softball fields in the little town of Kitwanga: 1200 people, 3 fields , one for each church and school I guess. Walked along the Skeena river for a while, saw cow piles on the road for the first time. There are lots of cows around now and houses in between the little towns. Heard peacocks screaming tonight at the end of the day; havn't heard that in quite a while. Tomorrow we go past South Hazelton, Hazelton and New Hazelton. I don't know what happened to North Hazelton. The extra traffic is a culture shock. A truck blew my hat off today, first that's happened since the haul road. (Dalton)     TOP

May 13, 2003

Dale: Had a rough time getting started this a.m. Raining, windy in the face, kept struggling along and managed to eke out about 25 miles to Moricetown. Saw another small bear today, but he ran away so fast I heard about as much as I saw. It did finally clear up after lunch, but still had a stiff head wind and lots of uphill stretches. Body's achin'!     TOP

May 14, 2003

Dale: Walked across John Brown Creek this a.m. - they say a guy was walking the creek looking for game and stopped to get a drink, looked in the creek and said "well, I'll be John Brown", hence the expression. My brother in law the historian may dispute this version of the history of the slogan, but it's as good as any. Also saw a brown bear dead along side of the road, either a car kill or the farmer next door got tired of him killing calves or something. The really strange thing was in the gravel not far from there on the side of the road was a surgical glove with the index finger stuffed with sand and administering a perfect bird. Someone had done an amazing job. I thought at first maybe some went to all the trouble for me, but then it was aimed at oncoming traffic, not at me. Oh well you can't get all the attention. There are huge farms like acres and acres with hundreds of cows all through here, it's crazy. Smithers is a gorgeous town —we are there tonight enjoying the riverside RV campground and golf club. Had some snow squall today and has been quite cool this evening. Got some wires and stuff for the Yota; still runs the same, still have to get someone to put a manifold gasket in—may wait until Seattle if it doesn't get any worse. Much better day today, but only did about 21 miles or so; will have to make it up later.     TOP

May 15, 2003

Dale: Signs on the same pole point the same direction - Cocks RdandMorden Rd. Had seen a creek sign with North Creek and South Creek on the same sign ( can't remember the name of the creek now). Enjoyed walking through the Bulkley valley and looking at all the different farms and variety of cattle. Went back to Smitheres to try and do email at the library, but spent most of the hour trying to get ATT to activate my account; for some reason they took me off of the remote thing. Finally got that figured out, but had used up our allotted time so didn't get many read or answered. Still managed 24.5 miles today even taking off 4 hours in the middle of the day, but walked til 9 and started at 6. Snowed in squalls off and on today; cold and looks like frost again.     TOP

May 16, 2003

Dale: Hungry Hill summit was without leaves and in Houston today there are a few leaves, but way behind Smithers. Houston boasts the world's largest fly rod. More crosses along the road now that we're in more populated areas; coming out of Kitwanga there were a lot—at least 6 or 8 for a couple days; more in one day than the whole Cassiar. Cold, windbreaker weather all day.     TOP

May 17, 2003

Dale: Beautiful morning, but chilly—walked through Topley and really enjoyed the rolling hills and farms; the country is really beautiful even without the tall spectacular snow capped Mountains. Had a police car stop to check on me today; second one on the whole trip. She was very nice and supportive; just wanted to make sure I was ok. It was much appreciated. I know we've reached true civilization—the first rest area of the trip with a flush toilet!! I'm in shock —the building is even heated. From here on there are sure to be more people.     TOP

May 18, 2003

Dale: Day off—slept a lot, read some. We were at a little park and the children were playing on the swings, skateboarding, roller blading—was fun to just sit and watch and listen.     TOP

May 19, 2003

Dale: Walked through Burns Lake today and watched a couple of grouse fighting by the side of the road, totally oblivious to me and everything else going on around them. Saw a fence made out of the worn out blades from the snowplows. It went on for about 2 miles and all the posts were made with the old worn out blades. Saw the Decker Lake Mennonite Church and saw a sign that said there was another one in Burns Lake. There was a street sign especially for me today; it said - Moe Rd ahead - definitely!     TOP

May 20, 2003

Dale: Saw the first moose I've seen in Canada today. Also the first car crash—actually didn't see it crash, but came up on it shortly after it crashed. I knew there was one coming up, because I had seen a police car and ambulance go by and shortly after that the traffic coming towards me slowed down considerably and people had this very concerned look on their faces. Also saw a deer that had been hit by a car. It was a doe and the fawns leg was sticking out of a hole the crows had picked in the side. Made the 2,000 mile mark today!! Don't know whether to celebrate or cry - only 1/3 of the way. Oh well maybe I'll do a little of both. Made it to Endako today, about 25 miles again. Actually went ahead to Fraser Lake to camp, so have to back track a little in the a.m. More towns, more people, more crosses.     TOP

May 21, 2003

Dale: Did the Frasers today—Fort Fraser and Fraser Lake; two towns about 8 miles apart—one maybe 4,000 pop., the other 600. Rained most of the afternoon, had to back track again to Beaumont Provincial Park on Fraser Lake. Last night it was White Swan Beach Park on Fraser Lake. Found a cell phone today and gave it to a guy at the restaurant in Fort Fraser. Stopped a little early at about 24 miles because it was rainy and kind of nasty walking. Looked in the mirror this morning and had one of those wild hairdos that's enough to wake the dead and scare the living! Three days to Prince George!     TOP

May 22, 2003

Dale: Foggy morning, rained all night so that moisture is hanging around. Dogs are becoming more of a worry now then bears; had one that looked pretty fierce come out to the road yesterday, then this morning one crossed the road and was nipping at my heels. I used my back pack as a shield, but he never bit it. I usually think aggressively but act passively. I only turn aggressive if they actually attack or it's obvious that they are about to. Also, had one yesterday come roaring out to the road, then lay down wagging his tail waiting to be petted. Owner said he was a puppy and stupid. Piles and piles of logs at mills in this area—timber is KING! Have seen several very active and several that are shut down not doing anything. Got dumped on in a cloud burst today—saw it coming and tried to get on rain gear—was just slipping it on when it hit and only lasted a little bit and then the sun was out. Sign on an old garage at Engen—Old Farts Parts.     TOP

May 23, 2003

Dale: Two firsts today—somebody blew their horn and gave me the peace sign—felt like the '70s; also, was talking to some kids about my pants and water pack and got distracted and headed back the way I came—never get there that way. Martha caught me before I actually crossed the road, but it was close.

Martha: Camped at Bednesti Lake Campground. This place wasn't listed in the Milepost, so we were pleasantly surprised to find it, not knowing where we would be camping. The Milepost lists very little as far as pullouts and campground etc, unless businesses pay to have an ad, plus a lot of property between the towns/cities now is privately owned, so it's hard to know how far I have to go to find a spot to be off the road to wait for Dale.     TOP

May 24, 2003

Long day—finally made it to Prince George, or at least past the sign and within a couple miles of the Junction. Found a campground close, but out of town a little so it's fairly quiet. There are getting to be more horn blowers; quite a few today. Also, counted 6 crosses in the last 20 miles or so today. Got dumped on again— thunderstorm!—haven't been in one of those in a while.     TOP

May 25, 2003

Dale: Wonderful rest, enjoyed a day not walking in traffic. Had an interesting experience walking into Prince George last night. When I got to the first major intersection, there were three lanes of traffic going into Rt. 16—a right turn, left turn and straight across. There were traffic lights and everything; the first crossing a guy stopped and waved me across. When I got in the middle and was ready to cross there was a sign facing the traffic that said not a pedestrian crossing. The only reason I saw it was because I was looking for a button to push to cross. Great feeling, they tell the traffic it's not a pedestrian crossing, but not the pedestrians. Also, am continually amazed in the cities ( Fairbanks as well) the pedestrian lights tell you to cross, then put up the hand when you are half way across. Get you in the middle of the road and then unleash the traffic on you—CITIES!!     TOP

May 26, 2003

Dale: Finally got out of all the major business and stuff in Prince George and back out in the country. Had someone ask me this a.m. about 2 miles from the city center at a red light how far to Prince George. People see me walking and assume I'm local, I guess. Strange thing is since I'm walking I can usually help them with directions, especially if I've been through town already. Camped at Stone Creek RV tonight right on the edge of the Fraser River; beautiful spot. The river is full and floating lots of driftwood; reminds me of the Yukon River in spring. A lot of the country here looks a lot like VA—low rolling hills and lots of small open fields with a few cows or horses, sometimes sheep and goats. Also, saw a bald eagle today working on something on a beaver dam. I have seen so many different types of beaver dams on this trip: concave, convex, double concave, double convex, containment, obstruction—I should be a dam expert by now.     TOP

May 27, 2003

Dale: Back in bear country for a while again, but these are a lot spookier. One this morning I didn't even see until I heard the brush snapping. Then another one this afternoon was quite a ways off in a field. She had a cub and they ran when they smelled me. Was just talking to a couple gals when I came in tonight and they and they had been watching my orange vest coming down the road. They asked what crossed the road behind me. I hadn't seen anything. Apparently a bear or moose crossed behind me because they said the traffic swerved and something was out in the middle of the road. I was totally oblivious to it all. Made it to Cinema BC tonight—2150 miles from P. Bay. Some of the signs on the B&B's and businesses say—Wir sprechen Deutsch—sign in Hixon today said—Wer bilingual Canadian and American eh.     TOP

May 28, 2003

Dale: Coming into Quesnel (kwe NEL) it was interesting to see the development of the different grasses and see how they are getting close to being ready for hay. The dandelions are in full bloom and one street was lined for blocks with lilac that was in full bloom and smelled like perfume. Sitting on a park bench waiting for Martha to come back from Safeway, an inebriated guy walked up behind me and was saying as he came, don't be scared, don't be scared. He came around and sat on the end of the bench next to me. He said, "Hi, you know me". I was thinking to myself, boy do I know you, so I nodded my head in agreement. Then he said, I'm just a drunk Indian. I said nice day isn't it and he says nice day but nobody wants to understand. Then he shook my hand and said you're a good man; Mase cho or something like that, got up and walked off. Spent the night in the Walmart parking lot.     TOP

May 29, 2003

Dale: Rough day, sunny and warm, think I ate too much chicken last night. My body is too accustomed to burning carbs, noodles, rice etc, so I was sluggish all day. Also for some reason some old blisters flared up again. The one on my left heel that had finally gone down, now has a new blister under the old one, so now I really do have blisters on top of blister, or in this case maybe a blister under a blister. Anyway they hurt like crazy until after I walk awhile and the pain sensors get tired of the signal and start to ignore it. I have so many road songs. I can't remember if it was today or yesterday, but has been appropriate lately—"Lord help me walk another mile just one more mile". But I can't remember the rest of the words, something about being tired, but that's all I can remember. Then there's, "The long and winding road that leads to your door" and "The road is long with many a winding turn that leads to who knows where". And for speed, when I can't hardly pick up the feet there's "Over hill over dale we will hit the dusty (or bloody) trail as those cassons (sp) go rolling along". The bed will feel good tonight.     TOP

May 30, 2003

Dale: First 30 mile day, now I know I can do it. That's half the battle. Walked through an area today with a dead deer about every mile for at least 10 or 12 miles. One place there were 2 in 100 ft. When the sign said deer next 36 km, I didn't know it meant dead deer. In a little campground abut 20 miles from Williams Lake with sheep, horses and peacocks all around.     TOP

May 31, 2003

Dale: Did about 10 miles this morning and then left in the motor home to go to Granite Falls for a wedding. Will take a break for a couple days—celebrate the wedding, our 29th Anniversary, get some work done on the motor home and hopefully start up again midweek about 10 miles from Williams Lake. Can't get used to driving, it seems strange to be back in that arena. I have to train myself to drive again, I tend to look at things too long.     TOP

June 03, 2003

Dale: Back in the shoes again after a fun day with son and his new wife. Made it about to 18 - 20 miles past Williams Lake, depending on what sign you read. Country is becoming arid and desert like. Almost like New Mexico and parts of Arizona. Long day driving and walking.     TOP

June 04, 2003

Dale: Into beautiful Lac La Hache tonight, so named because a Frenchman found a small ax along the shore, or so the story goes. Watched the prairie dog, marmots, ground squirrels and whatever else the ground burrowing critters are called, chasing each other around the fields either mating or fighting. They put on quite a show and seemed to be everywhere. Lots of small farms, almost everything along the road is cleared pasture or hay land - beautiful farms, cattle and horses. Nice warm sunny day, which is pretty much all we've had lately. Have been trying to count crosses, about 5 today. When I get to the states, I'm thinking about keeping a running total. Just a little over 2 weeks to go in B.C. and then it's Washington state. This has been a long province, the longest we'll be in any single state or province by far, even though we've gone much faster than last year.     TOP

June 05, 2003

Dale: Made it to 100 Mile House today. There are different mile house towns all through here - 108 Mile House has a wonderful museum that has a huge log barn and other renovated log buildings from the 1800's. Saw a cute sign on the back of a snap-on tool truck today - little boy with his Irish setter hooked to his wagon with all kinds of frayed ropes, the front wheel has fallen off, the dog is sitting down looking back at him in the wagon and the caption reads, "do you remember the first time you needed a good mechanic". Also coming up the hill at 100 Mile House is a life size man made out of rip-stop nylon, the arms are open the rest is enclosed and has a fan underneath, so that his arms are waving all around, but also the wind bends him at the torso so that as he waves his body is going through all kinds of contortions. It was hilarious - at least after days and days and miles and miles of cars and trucks whizzing by.     TOP

June 06, 2003

Dale: Looks like about 26 miles to Clinton tomorrow. Another beautiful day. Seeing lots of baby ducks and geese and also saw a deer, but no young ones yet. Got a Vancouver paper today - interesting to see the discussion about the attempt to restrict novice drivers in B.C. and Canada. Also several alcohol related stories; it's hard to pick up a paper anywhere that doesn't have at least one or two. Camped by Meadow Springs Ranch tonight - wanted to use their campground, but the gate was closed - oh well, we tried.     TOP

June 07, 2003

Dale: A sign outside a house with a spoon pictured and "ers" beside it for the Spooners name, I guess. Also in Clinton on an old 1800's Doc's sign: "Bones Set Blood Let Holes Patched Babies Hatched". Start down the SEA to SKY Highway 99 tomorrow, headed down the home stretch for the Pacific Ocean. Had someone cross the line today and not return until they had passed. Bad feeling, but what can you do, you're hanging out there like a hornet on a breeze in front of a Peterbilt - not many options except to think ahead and stay clear. Also had about 6 cars in both lanes headed my direction - traffic had backed up behind a motor home and everybody was trying to pass at once, horns blowing and all manner of madness. Needless to say, I made a beeline for the tree line or was it a fence line? Anyway as far from the side of the road as I could get as quickly as possible. Walked with sight of the coastal mountains today and starting into them tomorrow, still a little snow-capped. Nice to be in the mountains again.     TOP

June 8, 2003

Dale: Said a not so sad good-bye to Route 97 and headed down Pavilion-Mt. Clinton road towards Pavilion about 6:30 am. Hardly any traffic - about 2 cars per hour, which seems like nada after 97's screaming trucks, RV's and motorcycles. There was even a cattle guard across the road that had grass growing up between the poles - not even enough traffic to kill the grass. After about 10 miles and a dog encounter, I found out why - the road came to a Y and the one straight ahead said 'not a through road' and the one to the left headed straight into the side of a vertical mountain. I couldn't see anywhere for a road to go and then I saw a sign "steep grade 14% next 5km"!! What a ride - narrow gravel 2 track road that barely accommodated the camper in places. Martha was a real trooper and took it through; one of the most amazing woods I have ever seen. At one point maybe ½ mile from the top after about 6 or 8 hairpins, and I mean hairpin switchbacks there was a yellow sign with an arrow showing a curve - like what had we been doing already?? On top after a slight descent was a huge plateau with a probably 500 head cow/calf operation. Also saw a huge black bear and then another sow with cubs. The guys at the ranch said they didn't bother the calves, which I found amazing, although the cows were huge. Walked through a herd of about 150 cows and calves coming down the road; actually covering the road for several hundred feet -they were accompanied by 2 horseback riders in front and 7 in back driving them to some new pasture. One guy asked me how long it would take me, like he knew what I was doing. I had talked to the two out front, but not the ones in the back so I don't know how they knew. After the ranch there was a 2 mile 13% grade down the Pavilion Mountain with more switchbacks. I cut off a few of the hairpins going down and saved myself a little mileage. Also found a shiny new 2003 Canadian penny about 2/3 of the way up Pavilion Mountain - not a scratch. Usually they are mutilated by the time I find them. Maybe it's good luck. SOME DAY!!     TOP

June 9, 2003

Martha: I had a serious mountaintop experience yesterday - took awhile for me to relax enough to come back to earth. WHEW - what a road!! I'm spooked enough riding with someone on mountain roads, but having to drive and in the motor home was unreal. I could sense with peripheral vision that there were some glorious views, but viewing them was out of the picture. I practically begged Dale to drive and let me walk, but I'm not as tough walking either, so don't know if I could have made it. It was 3 miles up and Dale was only 15 minutes longer than his usual 1 hour/3mile - Tough Guy! - he was loving it. I can not imagine what I would have done if I'd have met someone in some places - there was barely room for one vehicle. Traffic was very slim of course, but it's bound to happen. I did meet a truck pulling a camper coming down, but fortunately was on a curve with enough (Not plenty as I started to write) room. Makes Atigun Pass (on the Dalton Hwy) seem almost like a picnic. While waiting for Dale on top of the mountain, a fellow in a diesel pickup stopped and not knowing what to expect, I thought maybe bears were a problem, he said "You better get off this mountain; it's dangerous !" But with humor he continued, "There's a crazy man walking up this mountain." I laughed with relief, because I know that "crazy man"! He wondered if the Toyota heated up. I said no IT didn't, but I surely did and as he was leaving he told me I need to adjust that crazy man's medication when he got in. Each stretch of road has its uniqueness and certain things to adjust to. The Cassiar had few settlements, though more than the Dalton, and traffic was slight, even though stretches had a fair amount of semis. The Yellowhead (16) was instantly more traffic and more towns/people, which helped us adjust more easily to the increase on Route 97. But the Pavilion Mountain/Clinton Road shortcut to 99 was an experience all on its own. I woke up early this morning and couldn't go back to sleep thinking about it. I didn't walk with Dale on the up and down mountain stretch, but enjoyed immensely walking the plateau area with fields and fields of cattle, grasslands and mesquite hills and mountains in the distance. A variety of flowers - huge yellow daisies most outstanding - and lots of birdsong. Have noticed a lot of birdhouses scattered along the fenceposts all the way from Clinton - appear to be for bluebird - someone was busy with them, all the same style and noticed a little metal plaque on them but never managed to see what it said. Route 99 is a road less traveled though there are semis and a fair amount of vehicles. It appears narrower and less maintained, too. We are definitely back in the mountains - that takes some getting used to. I like the slower place, but finding places to pull off and wait for Dale has been tricky. We have no milepost updates and little info about this road; just a map of it was hard enough to find, but towns aren't much more than 50 - 60 miles apart, though overall the road is certainly less populated. The physical adjustment for Dale would have been tolerable but along with the mental exhaustion - mainly his concern and worry for me - was almost too much for him to bear. We were superbly overstimulated (Dale calls it major scenery overload) by the awesomeness, ruggedness and beauty of the country everywhere you looked and all day long. Each bend, and they were constant, held a new vista - just totally overwhelming for me driving it. Pavilion Mountain - I had not recovered from getting through it and then we immediately came into Fraser River Canyon/Gorge all the next day, camped high above Seton Lake south of Lillooet with a powerful thunderstorm in the middle of the night. I was guilty of putting us there instead of down by the lakeside in a beautiful, peaceful provincial campground. I had it stuck in my head to try and get a 3 mile run (we had actually hoped to do 6 to make about a 27 mile day) and just climbed on up an 11% grade hill and fortunately found a large pullout (a brake check area for trucks - it said steep hill ahead). I thought to go back but the extra wear and tear on the camper going unnecessarily down and up that hill again wasn't acceptable. It took us the rest of the morning to wind through the Cayoosh Mountains. They did have reputable pullouts about every 2 miles - a welcome relief. It is obvious someone has taken great care in providing safety for travelers, but as the travel guide says "as awe-inspiring as the drive is, it needs your full attention". I was concerned mainly about the road closer to the ocean, but forgot about the Fraser River - going down Route 1 to Seattle through the Thompson and Fraser river Canyoun is an experience in itself, but I didn't think about it when looking at the map in Lillooet, which shows a large gray area going right through it labeled - FRASER RIVER!! About midday we came upon a speed limit sign - max safe speed 80 km/h (@ 50 mph) - what a shock but also a serious surge of relief. The road follows a voluptuous river which seems to be called Cayoosh Creek coming out of Duffy Lake though our map doesn't name it. It is running full and wild - you can hear boulders rolling around in it sometimes. The water is jumping and bouncing and roaring down to the Fraser River. I assume spring melt and rains have made it full, but maybe it's like that all summer. The road is so low and close sometimes it felt like you'd get caught, making me hug the yellow line (yes there actually is a yellow line). The suddenness of climate change from the dusty, brown, mesquite, semi-arid Fraser River into the lush, temperate forests of the Cayoosh mountains is incredible. Logging is extensive, but managed beautifully, not tearing up mountainsides, though I can't imagine how they navigated the steepness. The road has not been conducive to me walking, so I have been crocheting madly. Can't believe it's only been 3 days!    TOP

June 11, 2003

Dale: Had a really hard time getting going in the morning - every 3 mile stretch was a real mental effort, and about 10 o'clock I finally took an hour break instead of the usual 30 minutes and after that it went a lot better. There was a 10 mile down hill stretch in the evening which was easy for me, but with grades up to 15% it was gut wrenching for Martha and I worried a lot. The descent was constant and lots of S turns at the end. Mount Currie, Pemberton area is in a large valley with beautiful mountain views and farms. Decided to take a day off tomorrow as exhaustion is knocking hard at my door, mainly mental exhaustion; physically I'm doing ok. The assault of beauty on the senses is overwhelming, I almost can't look anymore. I don't think people can actually see what they're driving through, because the side window and the windshields are like a camera - very restrictive of the view. I actually saw someone driving by in a van with the side door slid open so they had a bigger unrestricted picture.     TOP

June 12, 2003

Dale: Enjoyed a good rest and found an amazing restaurant in between Pemberton and Mt. Currie called The Wicked Wheel - pizza and fettuccini. The food was so good, reminded me of another of our favorites in Dawson Creek - Mr. Mikes. They use fresh herbs a lot for seasoning. The pizza was amazing; usually pizza is just pizza, but this place should put Pemberton on the map.     TOP

June 13, 2003

Dale: Started out in the rain; first rain I've walked in since the Cassiar, except for the short bursts of thunderstorms. It had cleared up by about 10 or so, then a nice sunny day. I could actually look at and enjoy the view again today. The last couple of days it's almost been painful to look at. Fairly easy day, they said in Pemberton it was a climb to Whistler, but it seemed pretty mild compared to the last 3 or 4 days. Whistler is a resort town. Sign on the back of an old blue rusted out van painted in black on the back door - "You didn't inherit the earth, you just borrowed it from your children. Act accordingly!"     TOP

June 14, 2003

Martha: A very cool windy day - overcast mostly and rain around though fortunately we missed it. Traffic is heavy, though only a few large trucks. People are driving like maniacs - have that city scurry from Vancouver. Road is really good except for one 3 mile stretch under construction - what a nightmare and it came at Dale's last run - he was walking it from 7:30 on. The traffic had lightened some, but the road was so narrow and cliffs on either side and traffic zooming on both sides - they just don't believe in slowing down - going 60 mph instead of 80 is a slow down for them it seems. I got a chance to walk at Whistler - a beautiful bike trail following the highway and Green Lake yesterday. I have really missed walking, but I am finding that just to get the motor home ahead and waiting for Dale is about all I can manage. The road is just too dangerous for both of us to be out there.

Dale: Have gotten back to looking at scenery again, even took a bunch of pictures. The roadside memorial signs are quite elaborate - one like a small house with fishing pole, hockey sticks, hat and a whole bucketful of planted flowers; another with a Rood, on a concrete base with two metal plaques and 3 names - Jason, Devon and Dale - innocent victims of a head on collision. Doesn't say anything about alcohol related, but you can bet about 50% of them are. Canada has posted in all the stores where cigarettes are sold - 1 out of 2 smokers will die of smoking related illnesses. Also, they have ugly pictures of people with tongue and gum cancer on the cigarette cartons. No warning label at all on alcohol brewed in Canada - I read junk on the highway.     TOP

June 15, 2003

Dale: First glimpse of the ocean bays and sounds today - camped at sea level in Porteau Provincial Park right on the bay - beautiful mountain views all around. Went through Alice Lake, Squamish, Britania Beach - road is very narrow and I am having to walk on the opposite side from what I am used to, because the shoulder is a bit wider toward the ocean and sometimes I can walk on the other side of a concrete barrier. Saw a huge rock cliff which was amazing - dwarfs Devil's Tower in Wyoming - was looking at it for awhile then came to a huge parking area with 25 or 30 cars that said rock climbing park and there were no people around. I thought they can't all be climbing on that cliff, because I hadn't seen anything, so I started to study the face of the rock and then I could see tiny dots of color that would move occasionally and realized there were a lot of them hanging up there - unbelievable. Later there was a bay full of wind surfers and para surfers with their chutes dotting the sky like a child's multi colored cloud drawing. Feeling a little melancholy about leaving the mountain, but will be glad to get off this narrow rock road carving.     TOP

June 16, 2003

Dale: More narrow road, wild driver and steep banks. Am having to walk along the bank on the off side (traffic behind) over a concrete barrier, because my normal side has no shoulder and is right against a cliff. Sometimes having to jump back and forth across the barrier when no traffic is coming to get by sheer drops where there is no place to walk. Was walking along a sheep trail that turned into a lizard trail and was thinking if I slipped and went off here that would put a kink in the old spandex. Finally made it to Horseshoe Bay and the ferry to Nanaimo. What a day!     TOP

June 17, 2003

Dale: Rather dull scenery compared to what we've been in although the ocean coves and bays are kind of neat - just low rolling hills around Nanaimo. Went through Ladysmith and Chemainus today and camped at Bald Eagle Campground - two more days on Vancouver Island. Saw a baby deer today - had lost his mom and thought I was her; fortunately he was behind a concrete barrier and couldn't get in the road. When he sniffed my hand, he took off. I never did see the mother, dead or alive; hopefully they get reunited. Also saw some domestic rabbits way up on a hill above town away from the house. They had been in the same area for a while, because it was well worn. Later on down the road 7 or 8 miles I saw that quite a few people had them running around in the yard loose, babies and all, so I guess they decided to go independent. Beautiful, sunny day; hot, but not at all humid.     TOP

June 18, 2003

Dale: This should be our last night on Vancouver Island - will stay at Bamberton Provincial Park - huge trees, but almost no campers - saw one camper and a tent when we got in and it's about 8pm. Cute sign today on a little pick up - Doo Doo Doc - animal waste removal. Saw a white little Cuddles looking dog cross 4 lanes of busy traffic - a gal in a red car on the other side was calling it and I tried to catch it but the thing was afraid of me, so I just watched awhile until she could drive across to get it thinking maybe I could keep it out of the road. She was waiting on traffic because there was not a light, so I watched and waited, then glanced over at the car again and she had turned around and took off up the hill and never looked back - abandoned mutt - no I did not pick it up!     TOP

June 19, 2003

Dale: Lots of 4 lane high speed traffic trying to get to Victoria downtown and the beach. Watched a deer in the middle of traffic maneuver through it and survive - couldn't believe it. Walked downtown Victoria mostly on Government steet. Finally made it to Beacon Hill Park and found the beach - an overwhelming feeling to be at the end of B.C. and put my face in the Pacific and taste the salt. B.C. has been the longest most incredible experience - sad to see it end, but ready to get back in the U.S. and tackle Washington State. INCREDIBLE DAY - INCREDIBLE FEELING!!     TOP

June 27, 2003

Dale: After a family reunion and a couple days with my son, we are back at Washington Park at the beach at Anacortes. Went down and had my immersion in the Pacific - it was cold, but nothing like the Arctic. I suppose by December the Atlantic will be an iceberg as well. Looking ahead from here it seems like an insurmountable task to knock off another 3,000 miles by December. I also felt like that coming out of Prudhoe Bay. Anticipation, trepidation, excitement and agony all rolled up in a ball is what I feel tonight - one more day and 25 more miles and maybe I'll feel like it is do-able. Tonight I'll roll that ball around all night hopefully in my sleep, but not likely.     TOP

June 28, 2003

Dale: Started the morning off by walking right by the motor home and not seeing it and by the time Martha figured out that I had missed it I had walked almost 10 miles. We finally got back together, but it was a little scary there for awhile. She had parked on the opposite side of the road where I was walking, thinking that it was out in the open and visible. I was looking left at a Chevron station that we had agreed was a good place to stop, so never thought to look left before getting there. Just goes to show the old saying about elephants hold true for motor homes - when what you expect to see assumes an unexpected shape it disappears. Made it to Sedro-Wooley tonight in a little campground by the river. Had the motor home fixed again yesterday at the same place and they didn't charge me to fix the manifold gasket again - said it was under warranty from the last time - that was a surprise and a blessing. I was totally amazed. Signs in Washington sponsored by MADD and DOT read - Caution, Drunk drivers are out there - then to the left is a picture on blue of one or more victims and their names saying they were killed by a drunk driver. They are about 4 feet tall and 6 feet wide with the written part the caution yellow color almost 4x4 and the picture about 2x4. They are quite powerful. Also a huge billboard says cigarettes kill 53,000 non smokers a year - that is also quite impressive. Did about 28 miles today - saw one cross with 3 names and will try to keep count of crosses as I cross the continental US and keep a running tally on the numbers. Also two of the large yellow signs which I'll count, so that is 5 for the day.     TOP

June 29, 2003

Dale: Cool, cloudy day and some spitting rain, but nothing to get wet about. There was quite a bit of horn blowing the last couple days so when one came by from behind in the evening and tooted I threw up my usual wave and was surprised when the car pulled over and a familiar head stuck out the window. My son, his wife and a friend had driven up to find us and took us to a little known hot springs not too far from where we were thinking about spending the night. Had a great hot soak in a totally undeveloped hot sulfur spring. What a treat for some tired muscles at the end of the day. My son walked the last couple miles with me in the evening - really enjoyed those few miles. Camped pretty much alone in a state campground with trees the size of California Redwoods. Washington is also a beautiful state! Two more roadside memorials; one was a sign that said to the person that hit and killed our son and gave name, date, etc. - you will pay sooner or later.     TOP

June 30, 2003

Dale: Found 2 sand dollars on the side of the road in the sand in perfect condition, no idea how they got there unless they were placed. Picked them up for proof. Also, had a really wild experience with my shoes today; have been using a shoe horn to put on my shoes and when I came in from a 3 mile run it fell out of the back of my shoe - 3 miles with a shoe horn and I never noticed! A chemical toilet company at a rest area called - the Wizards of Ooze. Walked through Concrete today - the welcome sign was carved into what else - concrete! They produced 40% of the concrete for the Grand Coulee Dam. Starting to get into the Cascades, looks like tomorrow we'll be climbing them. Yesterday about 45 miles from the ocean there was a sign - Birdsview Pass, elevation 201 feet. We are climbing some again. 3 crosses today on a really developed site - flowers, mowed, 3 teenagers in the same accident, sign said tri - teen.     TOP

July 1, 2003

Dale: North Cascades National Park - slightly reminiscent of Hwy 99, although it has wider shoulders, less and much slower traffic. Several tunnels which was a little spooky. One had a button to push for flashing lights so the traffic would slow down to 35. I hit the button, ran through as fast as I could, and by the time I came out the other side the light had already stopped blinking. I remain convinced that most so called pedestrian safety lights are there mainly for the elimination of pedestrians. Am trying to make a conscious effort to talk to more people - talked to some young ladies pulling weed around park service trees and at first I thought they were picking berries. One thought it was neat that I'm doing this. Also talked to a guy at the Visitor Center that had hiked the Appalachian Trail. Interesting to hear his observations on shoes and feet - were very similar to mine in weight, width, tightness and cushioning. Also a couple days ago managed to match speed with a gal on horseback that was riding close to the highway - she was doing an overnite trip and had the horse shod with hard rubber boots that took the place of horse shoes, protected the whole foot; she said it was something new from Australia. One of the guys at the visitos center heard us talking to the Appalachian Trail guy and said, "I saw you the other day in Concrete, then Marblemount and now you are here - I'm impressed". Tonight it is Colonial Creek Campground and probably the only night in the National Park. Now it is on to cross the mountains, Rainy Pass, Washington Pass, where there are not towns, but then there's Mazaama, Winnthrop, Twisp and Loup Loup Pass - first class names.     TOP

July 2, 2003

Dale: Made it to a familiar name tonight - Rainy Pass, one of the most beautiful spots on the Iditarod Trail. This is also quite beautiful and it is said that the North Cascades drive on Route 20 is the most scenic in Washington. Went from National Park to National Forest administered by two different departments - Park - dept of the Interior and Forest - dept of Agriculture. Terrain is slowly looking like dessert, which they say it becomes on the other side of the mountains. Tonight we're at the higher elevation, will go through the highest a few miles down the road at Washington Pass. We have our friend the squeaky hinge bird, which was the only song for most of the Cassiar - guess the elevation is too high and too cold for anything else. His song is not particularly pretty, but comforting to know there are birds around. Still some snow on the side of the road here where we camped. Haven't been sweating much the last few days, but I think that may be coming to an end - have to enjoy the Alaska weather while it lasts.     TOP

July 3, 2003

Dale: From snow to the desert this morning. I was throwing snow balls at Martha and by evening I was sweating in the heat of a New Mexico or Arizona like day. Also have entered the rattlesnake domain. The scenery in the Cascades is very impressive, however after feeling in the Brooks Range like I wanted to just open up every pore and absorb the beauty and magnificence all around - it got to the point on Hwy 99 where I thought I would explode from the scenery overload and I just couldn't look anymore - just watch the road go by and look for pennies and 'assordid' road junk. Now I can look and take it again - it's not so overwhelming here. I'm almost looking forward to flat land in North Dakota, so my eyes can rest. Never thought I would say that. Made it a few miles past Mazama tonight, went back to Early Winters Campground, last one in the North Cascades National Forest. Tomorrow Winthrop and Twisp - maybe a name for a grandchild - Winthrop Twisp Swartzentruber?     TOP

July 4, 2003

Dale: Walked ½ day , took off ½ day - still desert a lot like Pavilion to Lilooet in B.C.. Sign this morning about deer collisions - 300 some a year; 100 some so far this year and the related cost of either 95 thousand or 950 thousand, couldn't tell by the way it was written up. Straight across the road from it was a large NO HUNTING sign. Have been road shopping more the last couple days; passed up a nice 5 gal water container, new hair brush, several nice nuts and bolts, underwear, socks, hat, but couldn't resist a nice new Cabella's stuff sack, another 7/16 wrench, 3 inch hose clamp, heavy duty bungy cord (my weakness) and a new US window flag. Also was tempted by a nice piece of smoked salmon, but a few yards down the road from it was a dead mouse that didn't have any obvious sign of vehicular contact, so thought maybe the salmon had something to do with it, or maybe a truck just scared him to death - I can relate to that. Anyway, the salmon remained on the side of the road as do so many other nice commodities which I reluctantly pass up. The thrill of road shopping.     TOP

July 5, 2003

Dale: Slept in - got full use of the room - 2pm yesterday to 11am today. Made it past Twisp a little ways, will do Loup Loup Pass tomorrow. It must usually be a lot cooler. Didn't feel to bad to me although I did sweat a little.     TOP

July 6, 2003

Dale: More hills to climb today, lots of critters smooshed on the road - snakes, weasels, squirrels, mice, deer (usually on the side). They get dried like pressed flowers, it's so dry here. If I were an artist, I'd collect the little robin, mouse, weasel, snake wafers for a mosaic as a tribute to the environmental benefits of the old highway. Walked through a bunch of orchards: on one side of the road to protect the cherries someone had a timed shotgun going off and on the other about 20 acres of cherry trees adorned with red, green, blues a foil strip that twinkled and sparkled in the sun like a giant flat Christmas tree. Not sure which one worked best, but there were an awful lot of birds around the side of the road waiting. Saw a really bizarre sight the other day - some guy hanging out of a car going full speed, only thing in the car were his hands holding on to the top of the window and his legs from the knee down - gave me quite a shock.     TOP

July 7, 2003

Dale: Spent most of the day on my old friend Hwy 97 - intersected Route 20 for a way. I guess the truckers that saw me over in BC figured I got where I was going and was coming back. Sometimes you have to go north to get east. Serenaded to sleep by thundering, bird-frightening gunfire until about 10pm, when they shut down for the night. They promptly resumed the war at about 5am, which is when we usually get started, so it worked out fine. Tonasket is a pretty little town along the Okanagon River with lots of orchards - apricot, apple, pear, cherry and peach. Everything has to be irrigated, so everything hugs the river. A few ponderosa pines dotting the unirrigated landscape, so we're starting to get back to a little more moisture. Tomorrow it's back in the hills.     TOP

July 8, 2003

Dale: Got back to Route 20 this morning, feels good to be on a little less traveled highway even though it's a little narrow. I have to employ my walk the white line and fade to the ditch when something is coming. That forces the drivers to see me quicker and get over while I'm getting over. If I give too much too soon they tend to crowd me more. Back up in the high cooler desert areas, really nice country - lots of ponderosas and open meadow, not a lot of creeks, but usually one not too far away. Camped tonight in a gravel pit; no campgrounds close by. Went by "my Father's Ranch Ministries" - looked interesting, lots of children in the yard, place looked really nice and well kept, a few sheep and llamas around, but not much else in the line of livestock. Another blister has come out of nowhere on my right heel, same shoes and insoles for weeks and then all at once a blister. Drained it and took the pressure off, so it was better 2nd half of the day.     TOP

July 9, 2003

Dale: Watched the desert turn into a forest it was like a line in the sand at the top just before Wauconda Pass - the hills were green instead of mesquite covered. Then over the pass huge trees again - 2 to 3 ft in diameter. I was amazed. Lots of deer today, probably more than any other day so far. Saw one cross the road with new twin fawns. One started to cross the road about 20 feet in front of me then saw me, snorted loudly and threw gravel and dust into the road turning around and bolting back into the woods. Tonight there were at least 10 or 12 grazing in a newly mown hayfield. At the Republic Fairgrounds Campground (Ferry County Fairgrounds in Republic) tonight, really nicely kept and a really great spot. Town has really great old style hotels and stores - should be more of a tourist attraction. We are the only ones in the campground at 8:30, except one locally parked trailer which looks like it's a fixture. Would love to be here for their annual fair, lots of horses in the area. Was tempted at the top of Wauconda Pass to get a little lot, stop, build a cabin and finish the walk next year, but Martha wasn't agreeable. Actually I wasn't either, but it was a fun thought. Really loved that pass!     TOP

July 10, 2003

Martha: On 7/8 we were about 7 miles west of Tonasket (didn't quite make it on 7/7, but drove into Tonasket to camp) and on my first 3 mile stop by a pear orchard, there was road that ran along the orchard several miles paralleling Rt 20. An older gentleman stopped by the RV and chatted. He mentioned a book that a fellow had written about walking the Pacific Crest Trail, then returned a little later and gave us the book - The High Adventure of Eric Ryback by Eric Ryback - what a story! The continuous climbing up and down as we traverse through Washington has kept my stomach in knots. Already Atigun Pass has become a memory, but the 'anxiety attacks' come more because of the realness of Hwy 99 in BC then because of the Washington mountains - not knowing what's ahead except mountains and passes and projecting the already close experience of Hwy 99 on them has not really been fair. It is a special treat to drive them in 2 - 4 mile increments though at times this slowness of dealing with the unknown has been rather unnerving. Traffic is much lighter and the drivers are more sane overall - so nice. The average road grade is around 6% though that can go on 3-8 miles or so, also with many sharp curves though not like the switchbacks on Pavilion Mountain or the S curves on Hwy 99. Temperature changes are noteworthy - generally nights cool/cold and the days warm /hot - although in the 80's is the hottest temp we've seen yet. The sun really packs some heat, but overall it is a very dry heat.

Dale: Spent some time visiting today with a retired schoolteacher at a rest area. Really enjoyed chatting with him and he promised to send me an email. He was very encouraging and supportive of the walk. The other day I came up on a guy picking flowers on the side of the road and a vehicle parked across from him, which was in my line of walk. There was a lady standing outside so I made idle chatter then she asked where I was walking from and where to. When I told her she got all excited and got the two teenagers out of the car to hear the story. The lady and her daughter (I assume it was a daughter) kept saying that's so cool. When the guy came back with the flowers they told him about it and he looked at me and said, "you sure you got all your brain cells left?" and I said that's a pretty common reaction; I get that a lot. The two ladies then put up a fuss saying that's so cool, that's so cool and finally the guy says ok it's cool. Also talked to a biker today riding from Massachusetts to Bellingham, WA. Hehad ridden over the same road we're taking through Montana and North Dakota and was headed over the same road we had just come down, so we swapped stories and road conditions at the top of Sherman Pass (5,575ft, the highest pass on Route 20). Saw a moose and calf on the last leg tonight. Will camp in the old CCC Camp Crowden in the Colville National Forest called Little American, because all of America was represented here. Tomorrow it's Colville. Forgot to write about the 29,000 acre burn area before Sherman Pass, about 15 years old, sign said it was started by lightning. Very interesting regrowth patterns, depending on the intensity of the heat. Some of the ridges were bare with no new growth of any kind even though there are still dead tree skeletons standing in those areas. Some areas came back as grassy meadows with no trees, even though there are old trees standing there. After 15 years it looks really lush and green with only the dead sticks poking through to indicate a fire. Stunning contrast between that and what hasn't burned.     TOP

July 11, 2003

Dale: Saw some wild turkeys this morning - two hens each with a clutch of chicks were fighting over something, sibling rivalry I guess; dust and feathers were flying and a big gobbler was all fanned out and fluffed up try to separate the two. When they saw me they forgot their differences and took the babies into the woods. Also saw chipmunks chasing each other around in the middle of the road, ran off fussing at me like crazy because I had interrupted their romantic game. Stopped in Kettle Falls for a break today and tomorrow. Found out the Budweiser Clydesdales are in Colville for today and tomorrow - will be in a parade or something. A sign read - Welcome to Kettle Falls 1,050 friendly people and 1 grouch.     TOP

July 12, 2003

Dale: Enjoyed a sleep in AC this am, but went out and faced the heat about 2pm and did about 11 miles or so toward Colville a ways. A couple ladies asked if they'd seen me in Twisp last week and from there we had quite a conversation about the walk and alcohol related deaths. People in Washington are really friendly and by far the most courteous to pedestrians I have seen anywhere. Has really been a great state to walk; other than Alaska I'd have to say my favorite thus far.     TOP

July 13, 2003

Dale: Cloudy and very cool most of the day; nice to be back in a National Forest - less traffic, more wildlife. Heard something fussing like a baby wild turkey; then saw a hawk circling and figured the hawk was looking for lunch. After a few minutes I realized it was the hawk fussing at me - she would circle, zone in on me, dip down a little but not very close and then circle again. Finally saw a huge nest in the top of an old dead pine tree that she was protecting. Was tired today after the heat, even with a day off or rather 2 half days. I slept about 15 or 20 minutes at each bread pretty much all day; usually only do that once or twice during the day. The half way mark is looming ahead and I think that has had an effect on my mental attitude as well as my normal mood swings (Trying to stay away from that dirty depression word!). Tomorrow I'll try again - another step, another mile.     TOP

July 14, 2003

Martha: My first pullout past Tiger happened to be in the middle of a livestock episode. See signs many times stating - Range Area Watch for livestock. Some cattle must have escaped the fence and one had gotten hit before I arrived, and a few were still milling around. A lot of trucks on the road, so assume damage was done by one of them. While waiting for Dale, a front end loader took care of the injured animal and all was back to normal by the time Dale arrived. It happened to be a 5 mile stretch for him, so it was about 1 ½ hr instead of the usual 3 miles/1 hr.

Dale: Road followed Pend Orielle River, which is really a lake, because it is dammed - seems like most of the rivers in Washington have 2 or 3 dams on them, which creates a lot of huge lakes. I prefer the beaver dams, but there aren't many around here; have seen a little sign, but not much. Will pass the 3,000 mile mark early in the walk tomorrow, just shy a little of it today. Knowing the ½ that's behind, makes what's ahead seem almost insurmountable. Seems strange now to think back to the first 100 and 1,000 miles - seems like a life time ago.     TOP

July 15, 2003

Dale: The halfway point came and went uneventfully. Made it to within about 5 miles of the Washington/Idaho border tonight, just shy of Newport. Lots of flat huge hayfields today, though not many cattle. A lot of fields are down and haven't been maintained; looks like they're just selling the hay. It's hard to make any money these days with beef cows. The heat has been a challenge the last few days; still managing 25 miles, but it's a struggle. Kind of sad to leave Washington - it's been a great state to walk through; scenery, people and all.     TOP

July 16, 2003

Dale: Welcome to Idaho - new state, new people, new attitude. Had 2 cars stop the first day to offer rides - one turned around and came back. Was reading an article yesterday about how North Idaho has gotten a bad name with the Aryan Nation, Ruby Ridge and some other bizarre incidents. The guy said people are quite tolerant here despite all the rumors to the contrary. Said something like people are tolerant enough to leave you alone, but will stop and help you out of the ditch - seems to be right on. Small town America - have I seen a lot of that - up close and personal. The one to three thousand population towns are really amazing - all the activity and attractions they have going on; music festivals, rodeos, fairs, churches, fire halls, numerous clubs, every kind of business imaginable. I wondered if you looked at an apartment house in New York City with 20,000 people if they could even come close to the diversity and ingenuity found in one of these 3,000 population towns. I really believe the heart of America is in these small towns. Newport and Priest River today, Sandpoint tomorrow.     TOP

July 17, 2003

Dale: Have had the overwhelming urge in the last few days to do something normal or productive - almost walked into a hayfield the other day to see if I could mow a couple rounds or a couple days. I see everyone going to work, mowing yards, strolling toddlers, weeding gardens, picking berries (I did stop along the road and pick a couple handfuls of service berries - I don't know where the name comes from, but Martha found out from a Ranger that they're edible). Had a mail pick up and there was a small local paper beside the PO so decided to see if they wanted to do a story. Found out I've got a lot to learn before I do another one - am much too scatterbrained and don't stick to my topic enough. O well that's one reason I wanted to try a small local paper. They may not even do a story, but it was good practice anyway. I kind of did it spur of the moment so didn't really gear up for it. Tonight there was gang of turkeys crossing the road, which I had been watching for a while, before they actually came across. About the time they got in the road a car came and I thought they were going to get hit, but the car stopped and waited. The brake lights weren't on because they were getting ready to leave, but more turkeys kept coming. I heard another car coming and realized they were going pretty fast and couldn't see that the other car was stopped, so I did the palms down sign signaling them to slow down and they got stopped in time - that was a strange feeling. There was also a guy in a big suburban screaming obscenities at a log trucker, because of something he had done earlier, I don't know what, but the trucker either exhibited complete control and ignored him or didn't hear him at all, I'm not sure which, but the guy eventually gave up and turned right on red. Good lesson on how to deal with road rage whether it was intentional or not. STILL HOT!!!     TOP

July 18, 2003

Dale: It was almost chilly this morning starting out. It felt wonderful not to be sweating for a while, but it didn't last long. It was soon back to the normal scorcher. More turkeys today - one large group of six adults and about 25 or 30 chicks mostly the same size. I watched them chasing grasshoppers around the field for a while; they were totally oblivious to traffic. Another group of 2 adults and about 8 chicks had a cat following them at a distance. I never saw the hen actually attack the cat, but could tell it had happened. The cat followed a while at a safe distance then turned and walked back towards the barn - too much trouble for a meal, I guess. Found a town on the map today which has to be one of my all time favorites - Good Grief. Where is it? About midway between I'll be John Brown and For Goodness Sakes - not really, actually about 3 miles from the Canadian border on Route 95 in North Idaho. We won't actually go through it, but we'll get close. We're through Bonners Ferry, Naples, Elmira (another favorite) and Moyie Springs tonight. Last day in Idaho, Montana tomorrow. I feel like I've been taking 2 steps north, 2 steps south and about one step east the last week or so - a lot of miles, but not many in the easterly direction. After Shelby, MT it sort of straightens out and decides which direction it is going, but first the last mountain range and Glacier National Park. Then it is FLAT for a long time.     TOP

July 19, 2003

Dale: Made the great state of Montana about noon today - very hot temps must be upper 90's. It was 83 tonight after the sun went down. Montana has 70 mph speed limits on this little, 2-lane hwy with about a 16 inch shoulder past the white line. We went from about a 3 foot shoulder in Idaho at 60 mph (I thought that was bad). Now we have less shoulder and 10 mph faster. We were talking yesterday about ways to reduce highway fatalities and one was to make the speed limit be related to the shoulder width. About 50 feet from where the speed limit is posted is another large sign with a white cross that says something like - each cross along the road represents a hwy fatality, drive carefully. There were 15 crosses the first 14 miles into the state - I'm almost afraid to keep counting. Got greeted by a couple teenagers that read the sign on the RV and felt obligated to expose themselves, then drove in circles closer and closer trying to spray the motor home with gravel, which they did successfully. Welcome to Montana - hope that was not an indication of things to come. Most people seem very nice. Always a few bad apples. Saw a small grizzly dead beside the road, fairly old, but even a dead grizzly means you're back in God's country - that was just a few miles shy of the state line today. Also lots more turkey - what a beautiful bird. I am struggling to get in 25 miles in the heat - only got in 23 today.     TOP

July 20, 2003

Dale: Wonderful to just rest and be out of the heat for a while. Having lunch in a small café a family was eating across from us - grandparents, an obviously pregnant daughter or daughter-in-law and a 3 or 4 yr old little girl. When they left the little girl gave me a grin that just took my heart right out the door. I was overwhelmed with wanting them to be safe and at the same fearful for their safety - this is why I walk, as well as my grandchildren, children and the generations to come. Life and safety, such a gift, I have learned to treasure every breath of every day. Wanted to go to church today - so many options and not sure of times so didn't make it. Still would like to see what a random church's reaction would be. It is 4 am Monday and I'm ready to walk, not sure if that's a good sign or not - either I'm well rested or will just be tired midway through the day. E-mailed the Montana Governor's Office about the 70 mph speed limit.     TOP

July 21, 2003

Dale: Road shoulder widened between Troy and Libby eight plus feet from the white line - luxurious! Only lasted about 20 miles or so in between and around the towns, after that it was back to scrambling for the ditch. Still 25 crosses - I guess because of increased traffic flow. Libby gets the prize for being the only town in 3,000 plus miles to have the pedestrian signs stay lit until you completely cross the road - all of them! Old DON'T WALK, WALK signs and the newer idiot hand, man walking ones - I was impressed and amazed. I almost felt safe trusting them, but have been too conditioned, so I still pretty much just crossed when I felt safe and usually ignore the signs, except in heavy traffic. Another HOT one!     TOP

July 22, 2003

Dale: Tired tonight - hot again - very demoralizing to be walking North & South and not so much east. Will have to wait for Shelby before things really straighten out. New road the last part of the day - 8 to 10 ft shoulders and crosses stopped abruptly. I think they moved them when the road was built. One live moose, one small dead black bear, lots of dead deer and a few walking.     TOP

July 23, 2003

Dale: MacGregor Lake tonight about 30 miles from Kalispell. Blister flared up again for no apparent reason - one on my right heel and one huge one on my left little toe. Martha said yesterday while fanning me with a big envelope after one particularly hot stretch of road "I'm your #1 fan." It's been a long road - Moe Road Ahead!     TOP

July 24, 2003

Dale: Never thought I'd want to see 85 to 90 temps, but after 2 weeks of 95 to 100 or more, I would love a couple 85 to 90 days. Next to Highway 99, Sea to Sky Highway, this has been the toughest part of the walk so far - heat and I do not get along well - Alaska is hard to beat.

Martha: Drove down to Proctor - about 30 miles south of Kalispell along the Flathead Lake to visit some friends. Forest fires all around - one burning fairly close to where we plan to go - hopefully wind and weather will cooperate so as not to delay us. It could have Thursday night, they were evacuating one town close by, but the wind changed. Made the air really smoky this a.m., but better now - we can see huge plumes /clouds of smoke in the distant mountains.     TOP

July 25, 2003

Dale: Had a great breakfast at our friends this morning - really nice quiet night with views every direction. Really enjoyed seeing them again; it really is amazing what it does to lift your spirits just to see familiar faces and people that have shared a little bit of your life and same community. Only did 19 miles, first day less than 25 in a long time - outside of Columbia Falls a few miles tonight.     TOP

July 26, 2003

Dale: Got offered a ride today, first time in Montana - it's getting to be a real event when someone stops now though it happened all the time in Alaska especially early in the walk. I think now people just don't believe I've actually done what I say I have. A few days ago some surveyors off in the woods in a quite remote area saw my blaze orange, which they were also wearing and yelled to see who I was, because I guess they had all of their party. When I said I was walking from Prudhoe Bay to D.C. there was a long silence, then one guy said, "so, you work for the state or county or something?" Lots of smoke today, but had a nice thunderstorm in the morning which cooled things off a bit.     TOP

July 27, 2003

Dale: Day off - felt good to sleep in and just relax. Spent most of the time in Hungry Horse.     TOP

July 28, 2003

Dale: Went back to 27 miles after a couple of slack days - felt ok. Morning was cool and the miles went fast; afternoon was still quite hot. One pole with 9 red crosses - looked like maybe a load of teenagers - one cross had an inscription for a 17 year old, the others were black.     TOP

July 29, 2003

Dale: Started off the morning with a smoky, pink sky, but not nearly as smoky in Essex as it was in West Glacier. Found out they evacuated West Glacier Monday night 6 pm about 11 hours after we left, so we squeaked by that one. Did one last major summit today - the Marias Summit at 5216, the continental divide and the lowest pass it says. It didn't even feel like we were climbing and you barely feel the descent - very strange after most of the others were so steep both ways. Country is beautiful, but mundane compared to what we've been through. Still has a unique beauty all its own though. Got passed by a group of bikers; one stopped or rather slowed to my pace and chatted for a while. She asked all about the walk and even clocked me with her bike at 3.6 mph average. Was recalling four other strangers that slowed to my pace and visited, at least that's all I remember. Got passed by a gal on foot last week - she came out of nowhere; I was in the middle of nowhere and all of a sudden she was coming up behind me on the other side, never said a word or looked in my direction, but left me in the dust. I tried as best as I could to match her stride for stride, but just could not keep up - that was a humbling experience. Not quite in East Glacier tonight about 2 or 3 miles out, but found a nice campground, so decided to stop at 26 miles for the day. It was much cooler, so I am not feeling quite so exhausted tonight - almost felt like a 20 mile day.     TOP

July 30, 2003

Dale: Walked out of the mountains and into amazingly flat country - few rolling hills, but still pretty flat and hardly any trees anywhere. The mountains are becoming a dim blur, clouded by smoke. Sun was a red ball with the rays filtered through the smoke this evening. Did a roadside camp tonight - made it through Browning and Blackfoot. Watching the mountains fade into the horizon, I feel like I'm losing an old friend. They have been my constant companion since the north slope with the exception of a few flat areas and even then they were always there in the distance. Now they're disappearing and there's nothing quite like them from here on in. Now I have to think FLAT!     TOP

July 31, 2003

Dale: Last day of July - it faded away like the mountains into the smoky mists. Wheat fields for miles and miles. Halfway through Montana is in sight - looks like we may be able to knock off Montana and North Dakota by the beginning of Sept. If so we should be able to finish by the end of November. Found out the other day that the CD's on the side of the road work. I thought people were throwing them away because they were no good. I got bored and picked up a couple and they work fine. Most I throw away, but found one I like today. Always road shopping to do - found a nice butane hand warmer the other day and a while later a cover that fit it perfectly; but bungees still are my mainstay.     TOP

August 01, 2003

Dale: Thermometer on the bank sign in Shelby read 95 at 6:25 pm this evening. I would never have dreamed they had this kind of heat this far north for this long. It has been a real struggle getting through every day. It goes well the first 10 - 12 miles - they go quickly and easily, then about 1pm the heat hits and doesn't really let up until about 8pm and by then it's starting to get dark. A few little bumps that they call mountains, which are only hills, but lots of flat land in between with thousands of acres of wheat - grasshoppers galore. The cars that are traveling fast look like they have a nasty grasshopper juice wing collage plastered all over the front end, mirrors and windshield. The live ones along the edge are feeding on the dead ones.     TOP

August 02, 2003

Dale: Another 97 degree day!! Not such a great night to sleep last night - automatic sprinklers came on about midnight, rattled the side of the camper enough to wake us, so I got up to see what was going on, looked out the widow and got a face full of water. I had to go outside and put a #10 can over the sprinkler. Also picked up another mouse somehow and it was making noise off and on all night. Made a trap with the #10 can (really versatile piece of junk) by cutting a hole in the plastic lid, smearing a little peanut butter down the inside and around the hole and then made it accessible.     TOP

August 3, 2003

Dale: Relaxation!     TOP

August 4, 2003

Dale: Got the mouse - turned it loose in a wheat field where we started the day. Today was like a vacation - very cool, overcast, low 80's; felt wonderful. People in the central part of Montana seem much more friendly, almost every car that passes waves. Talked to a biker who wanted to shake my hand to congratulate me on the walk so far. Camped tonight by the Inverness town cemetery. Martha says I shouldn't worry about spooks.     TOP

August 5, 2003

Dale: I feel a little like the salamander I saw today. There was not a sign of water anywhere except for a little dew left from a slight sprinkle of rain and here right in front of me crossing 2 lanes of highway on hot black asphalt was a little newt/salamander looking critter; definitely not a lizard - thin, smooth, damp skin. He made it across and headed down the bank toward a dry wheat field. Another strange sight I forgot to mention the other day - a motorcyclist riding by at 65mph or so with arms crossed over the chest and NO hands on the handlebar. Camped tonight on the edge of a huge wheat field - windy, and nice half moon looking in the back window.     TOP

August 6, 2003

Dale: Halfway day - halfway through summer, halfway through the week, halfway through Montana, little over halfway through the trip. Had the first thing thrown at me today - an egg that missed me, but splattered some junk on my arms and legs and just about 10 minutes later a guy stopped, walked across the road and said he had seen me walking since Kalispell (about 250 miles ago) and wanted to hear my story, so I told him, he shook my hand, said he was impressed, congratulated me and said God Bless you and went back to his truck. Just goes to show you for every bad egg, there's a good one not far behind. Came close to stepping on a snake late tonight. Martha had come back to meet me and we were on the last run of the day. I started to go over in the grass because a car was coming and just happened to look down and it was coiled ready to strike - close call - he was obviously poisonous, but I am not sure what kind. Camped at a pull out - huge thunderstorm and rained buckets.     TOP

August 7, 2003

Dale: Another HOT one - 95 to 98 - just can't seem to get away from it. Finally a few hills and trees and the Milk River - there are cows and hayfields again instead of all wheat. In a grove of trees by a little creek tonight - haven't been in a campground all week - maybe tomorrow.     TOP

August 8, 2003

Dale: Backtracked about 9 miles and spent the night in Harlem - town names are different - we also have Kremlin, Fort Belknap and tomorrow Malta - still in cattle country and most of the day on Fort Belknap Indian reservation.     TOP

August 09,2003

Dale: Made it to about 10 miles out of Malta and will take a day off there. Country here is a little nicer with rolling hills, green ribbon of trees following the river. One intersection in Dobson had 11 crosses - always a sobering sight to see 6 or 7 on one post.     TOP

August 10, 2003

Dale: Relaxed in Malta. Another 98/99 degree day - was happy not to be out in it for a change. I think the heat is following us because in the paper they say it's cooler back where we came from a week or so ago in Havre. Hopefully it'll cool off by September.     TOP

August 11, 2003

Dale: Talked to a biker today with a group biking for the Michael J. Fox Foundation. They all met on a hike on the Appalachian Trail. Had a nice visit for a while - he's from Maryland, lives on Route 50, which would be on the way from downtown D.C. to the ocean. We exchanged cards and hope to correspond some. Another 99 - l00 degree day - am still managing the 25 miles, but just barely - Less than 200 to go in Montana, will put the finishing touches on it in a little over a week. I can already smell North Dakota.     TOP

August 12, 2003

Dale: Mosquitoes have been ornery the last couple days. I'm no stranger to mosquitoes, and I've certainly seen larger volumes and larger mosquitoes, but none quite as persistent and immune to mosquito repellent as these. It only works for about 5 minutes until it dries on your skin, so after you put it on you can feel them bumping you to test it out and after it dries they resume drilling. If I don't get West Nile Virus it won't be because the Montana mosquitoes didn't do their part. I've been inspected, injected, infected and dejected!!!! - nasty little critters. Thermometer in the bank in Hinsdale tonight read 96 at about 7::30pm. It felt almost cool until I saw the thermometer, then was wishing I hadn't seen it. I know it was over 100 today. Found the community park in Hinsdale tonight - we're the only occupants. Hope it stays as quiet the rest of the night as it is now.     TOP

August 13, 2003

Dale: "You had my curiosity up way past normal." A guy stopped where we were parked and talked a while and that's what he said before leaving. He had seen us for several days on his daily commute. People in eastern Montana seem much more friendly than back when we first came in. I've had quite a few offers for rides and people are always waving. It's also out in the country and out in the boonies people just seem to be more friendly than around larger towns or major tourist areas. Over 100 again today; was supposed to be cooler, but it didn't happen. Made it into Glasgow tonight - campground with a pool - talked to a biker today that stayed here on his way west.

Martha: The wind blew hard in Dale's face the first several miles and when it got hot there was hardly a puff of air - suffocating.     TOP

August 14, 2003

Dale: The heat goes on - stopped for some ice cream and to get into some AC for a while at Nashau and the thermometer in the little alcove entryway read 118. I think it had an exterior sensor, which was in the direct sun, but when it's shining on you all day that is what it feels like. I'm sure the air temp was over 100 again. People stop more often because it's so hot. Had a truck from an army convoy stop and a lady in a nice big air conditioned truck turned around and came back - when the window rolled down and the blast of cool air hit me, everything in me said YES take me anywhere out of this heat, but my mouth said I'm fine, we're on a cross country walk, thank you very much. Cooled down nicely last night; camped by a wheat field again and watched the grouse chasing grasshoppers around the wheat field for a while. They were in 7th heaven and all fat as butterballs. Hope to make Wolf Point tomorrow.     TOP

August 15, 2003

Dale: Found a kitten that someone left on the side of the road - had a soft spot, so I carried it a couple miles to the camper. I asked one of the flagman and several other people along the way if they wanted it, but no takes. I asked one guy if there was an SPCA in Wolf Point and he said what's that. When I explained he said, oh they take strays at the police station. So when we got to Wolf Point we found the local police station and right outside were three young girls with a puppy and no parents, so I asked if they wanted a kitten and they were happy to take it. Started out this morning with a medley of SUN songs - 1) I'm gonna soak up the sun, 2) The morning sun is shining like a red rubber ball, 3) Sunshine on my shoulders makes me happy, 4) Here comes the sun and I say it's alright, 5) The sun will come out tomorrow, bet your bottom dollar that tomorrow there'll be sun, 6) Not a cloud in the sky, got the sun in my eyes, 7) You are my sunshine, my only sunshine, 7) Ain't no sunshine when she's gone - there must be a million of them. Anyway we definitely got sunshine - over 100 again today. I have to alternate shoes because the heat and asphalt make the soles get so soft that it's like walking on the insoles, so I have to let them cool off. Had several offers of rides again; someone even stopped and offered me some bottled water. Heat brings out the best in people - well sometimes in some people. Wolf Point tonight - 85 miles to N.Dakota.     TOP

August 16,17

Dale: Another stifling day with temps to 106 - having a little trouble with my GI tract. I think drinking so much water, it gets hard to process that much volume, so it just has a tendency to send it on through. It's hard to eat enough when I drink so much water, so I try and eat small amounts often during the day and a larger meal at night, when I'm inactive. More people stopping today - this afternoon someone stopped in a roadway so I went over and talked awhile, explained what we were doing. He went ahead to the town and started spreading the word and later his brother came out with a little water mist machine and cooled me off, invited us for supper and sat and visited for a long time about alcohol related issues. We've been invited for dinner at the Presbyterian Church tonight and also a ceremonial sweat lodge later. After having an egg thrown at me earlier a week or so ago, this has been a real morale booster. It is appropriate that this huge boost is coming from the Native American community. It has reinforced my love for them and the passion to go on and try to work toward solutions in this horrendous problem in our communities, and to continue to encourage others to get involved with MADD and writing to representatives to bring it under control. Have been getting emails as well from the family reunion that are very encouraging and helpful to my morale. I have to confess, coming into Montana, the first part, was really tough and I got pretty down. It is so great to come here and get all this support.     TOP

August 18, 2003

Dale: Got a break from the heat today - it was only 92 at noon and probably not much over 95 at the hottest part of the day. Had a group of students from the treatment center come out and walk with me a little ways. That was a real boost - would have loved to spend more time with them, but found out they needed a police escort to be out, so we didn't get to go too far together. It was still a real encouragement and inspiration for me. Also brought some gifts - some sweet grass and a little water mist sprayer to cool me off during the day. This place has been awesome - never forget Poplar, Montana.     TOP

August 19, 2003

Dale: Back in the upper 90's again, but the morning was nice and cool. Made it to within about 10 miles or so of the border, so last night in Montana - feels good to have it behind us - the last big state; the rest are all a lot smaller. Rolling hills here, mostly cattle - things are a little greener here, so it looks like it's been cooler and wetter than the last 100 miles or so. Hopefully the cooling continues.     TOP

August 20, 2003

Dale: The other day someone stopped and said, "You wanna walk? You wanna ride?" Yes/No. Montana faded into the horizon like a slow sunset - the thought the mind has conceived the foot hath accomplished so far. Started out the morning with two 4-footed accomplices. They had hung around the camper last night and were still there this morning. They followed about 3 miles and then one got spooked by 3 other dogs into a wheat field and deserted the party but the other one, a black speckled border collie/blue heeler & something else crossed in, stayed with me for another 14 miles, moving ahead to find water, dodging traffic, scarfing up tenderized gophers and other flattened critters along the way. Finally, after 17 miles he'd had enough and went to join some guy on a combine in a wheat field and I haven't seen him since. He really got into the walk/rest cycle and would tear down the road to the camper like he was going home when we got close. Next to Martha, my longest walk yet. I called him MIB - man in black. Made it to just outside of Williston, North Dakota, which is big enough for a Walmart - JOY.     TOP

August 21, 2003

Dale: Spent some time in Williston at Walmart and also got gas and propane. Finally found a place with cell phones and got a couple of phones. Hopefully we can use them the rest of the way and keep in better touch with each other and everyone else. Much greener in N. Dakota, hasn't been as hot as long and they've had a little rain. Temperatures today were wonderful - I don't think it got above 85 or so all day and I could see my breath this morning taking off - haven't seen that since the Cascades. Saw a huge snapping turtle in a little muddy creek, also a couple days ago a very large beaver - kind of strange with no trees around. I guess he's eating cat tails or their roots, since it seemed to be thriving anyway. Saw a sign - no mowing highway right of way wildlife habitat. I always thought the mowing was to help keep them off the highway. It would seem that cars would kill a lot more wildlife than the mowing at least from what I've seen. Not far away from the sign was a dead deer hit by a car. Someone is trying anyway. Roads in N. Dakota seem a lot better so far than in Montana - more shoulder and more reasonable speed limits.     TOP

August 22, 2003

Dale: Banged heads with the wind most of the day - blowing probably 45 mph and at one point the blast of a truck combined with the wind stopped me dead in my tracks. Days are much cooler, but the wind wore me down pretty good.     TOP

August 23, 2003

Dale: Wind shifted to behind me in the afternoon, almost had to hold back, couldn't walk as fast as it wanted me to go. Seems like more people are blowing horns and waving as if they know what's going on. The other day a state guy in Montana asked where I was going and when I told him he said, "Oh yeah, I heard about that." I got a model T oogha horn and a 'wish I was in the land of cotton' horn today. Also getting some thumbs up. The sun has been amazing the last few days rising and setting has the appearance of looking through a smoke glass, just a giant reddish pink and moves so quickly above or below the horizon. Last night I didn't have a camera and was just coming to the RV maybe less than quarter mile, wanting to take a picture of the sunset - it was just above the horizon - and by the time I got to the RV it was already below the horizon. Got the feeling yesterday of being back in farm country - walked by about a 75 - 100 acre field of beautiful corn; had seen a few feeble attempts at corn back in eastern Montana, but you could tell it wasn't right - patchy, uneven, weedy. This stuff was perfect. So we are getting to the corn growing possibility anyway. I am getting bored to tears with the wheat fields that are endless. Today there were huge piles of something out in the open - wheat or fertilizer or what? It was dumped in a grain elevator and just left in a pile alongside the road, even in the yard of a huge grain storage area. Haven't been able to ask anyone about it. I am really loving this slow rush through the country at the speed of foot.     TOP

August 24, 2003

Dale: Nice rest in Stanley - just slept a lot and watched some news and a talk by William Least Heat Moon who wrote the book Blue Highways. He drove through here for part of his book - feel a little kindred spirit with him even though I'm walking it.     TOP

August 25, 2003

Dale: Things are finally cooling down to what I kind of expected for July and August about 85 or 90. Lots of rolling hills through here - saw about 100 appaloosa horses today in a big field all with foals at their sides with lots of spots and variation in colors - really quite a stunning sight. Seems to be more water in the little lakes and ponds here, although a few have dried up. Went back to a 27 mile day today and it felt ok. With the heat gone it really feels quite easy at this stage, so I'm thinking maybe I'll try again to pick it up a notch or two. Trying to decide whether to stay on Route 2 or start heading a little south on Route 52 out of Minot. Still haven't decided for sure, but will have to tomorrow.     TOP

August 26, 2003

Dale: Back near a river; irrigation going on again - thousands of acres of sunflowers all pointing their heads in the same direction. Decided to stay on Route 2 - am getting used to 8 to 10 ft shoulders, also doesn't seem to save any mileage trying to head south at this point. Four more days to the four thousand mile mark and about 2/3 of the trip. Little campground tonight just outside of Minot.     TOP

August 27, 2003

Dale: Did an interview with a reporter from the Minot Daily News - we'll see if they actually do an article. The lady said the country around Minot had 7 highway fatalities last year and 6 were alcohol related. There's a group in N.D. trying to get the .08 law repealed, which I saw in the paper today after the interview. I'm still green and not very good at giving interviews, though I am starting to feel a little more confident and comfortable. Tonight we're alone again at a beautiful town park campground in Granville - huge trees all around; haven't seen these much lately. It's kind of hidden down a side road, but we followed signs and eventually found it - the road was a narrow gravel road which looked like a private drive, but eventually would up in the park. It has a huge equestrian arena and looks like they have quite a lot of horsing around going on at times.     TOP

August 28, 2003

Dale: Cool this morning, had my windbreaker on at 9:30 for the first time since I can't remember when, even saw some yellow leaves. Temperature variation the last couple weeks went from 106 down to probably 40 or 50 this a.m. - not as drastic as Alaska a few years back when it went from 55 above to 58 below in about 2 days. Trying out a different strategy for walking a 4 lane when there's not much shoulder on the left - I walk on the right. Traffic doesn't have to get over and there's more distance between us unless someone passes, in which case I go off into the median strip. The Minot Daily News did a really nice article on the walk today - very well done and we were quite pleased with it. You're never sure when you're interviewed what's going to come out if they do a story, but this one was very good. The parks in these little towns are really nice, most only have a few campsites, but those are clean and well kept. Tonight we're in Towner and the only camper again, so we have it all to ourselves.     TOP

August 29, 2003

Dale: Made it to the geographical center of North America in Rugby. You could say we're in the heart of America or the midsection depending on your point of view. Actually North Dakota has been much more enjoyable than I expected. The roads are amazingly free of trash and in very good shape. I think I could fit all the trash in a 3 mile stretch of road in one medium size garbage bag. I was counting cans and bottles on which I could see labels back in another state - 270 in about 2 miles or so and 200 were beer or other alcohol and the 70 were pop, water, Gatorade, juice, milk bottles, oil cans any other metal or plastic container I could read. I have counted my steps in a mile - 2190 - not quite 3 foot steps, which is what I usually assume. Walked a long stretch of construction where I have a whole lane to myself all the traffic is on the other two lanes - what a relief. Tomorrow I have more of it, maybe 10 miles or so.     TOP

August 30, 2003

Dale: Knox, York, Leeds today - last day to walk in August. September has always been one of my favorite months, maybe because it's my birthday month, maybe because it's cool - now it's also the stage of my life and age. I think of Spring as 1-25, summer through 50, through 75 is fall and if you make it to 100, winter. Hopefully the walk will be done before serious winter. Lots of cattle in this neck of the woods, but also wheat, a little corn and still lots of sunflowers. I think everyone in N.D. is either farming or in some way involved in something associated with it. Maybe that's why it's so clean. There were 3 or 4 huge dealers of tractors or farming implements of some type in Rugby - a very small town. 4000 + miles today.     TOP

August 31, 2003

Dale: Minot Daily News had a small story about a bootlegging bust on a reservation - an interesting quote by U.S. Attorney Paul K. Charlton, "The return we see from our efforts in this area is a safer community because we're attacking the underlying cause to a crime of violence". Interesting words from someone from the U.S. attorney's office. Guess illegal untaxed alcohol causes violence, but if it's legal and taxed, no problem. Was thinking this week about something an executive from a brewing company said about only a few people having alcohol problems - if it's only a few, then it shouldn't be much of a problem or expense for them to foot the bill for the treatment centers.     TOP

September 1, 2003

Dale: Beautiful fall day - the coolness is a welcome relief and it came all at once, almost immediately after the extremely hot stuff. Had my theory about walking the inside shoulder on the 4 lane severely tested today - two policemen in less than 2 hours stopped and told me I was walking on the wrong side of the road. After explaining why and agreeing to walking the other side if they wished they both said it was fine. However, one said if he got a call about some guy walking down the middle of the road he would be back and ask me to walk the other side. They both said the shoulder was wider on that side, but when I pointed out that it wasn't and they actually looked, it helped to convince them. One guy said in all his years driving he'd never seen anyone walk there on a 4 lane. I figured there's probably never been anyone that walked 25 miles a day on a 4 lane before. They were both supportive of the walk. I had the one guy laughing before he left and I got a God Bless You buddy and a hand shake from him. When I walk the inside shoulder the traffic flow is much smoother, because people aren't shifting lanes nearly as much which is safer for me and them. The first cop was writing tickets and parked and I walked towards him and before I got there he came out and ID'd me and checked me out but the other cop passed me in my lane on the inside shoulder and came back. One of them said more as a statement then a question when he stopped "You're walking the inside shoulder" - interesting day!     TOP

September 2, 2003

Dale: Sign said Nelson County tonight on the last little stretch before Lakota - guess I'll walk for my old alma mater tomorrow. This is called the lake region of N.D. and there are lots of frogs, raccoons and muskrats around - haven't seen any live ones, but lots on the road. The frogs just come out on the road after a rain and dry up in the sun, some are hit by cars, but a lot of them just dry up. There was one today perfectly preserved in mid stride. At first I thought he was alive, but he was just dried up, front leg raised, one back leg forward but frozen in position by the sun. Another was stretched out full length, back legs kicked back, front legs stretched out and mouth wide open in a silent scream. Another lay on his side with front leg draped over his chest, one back leg over the other, mouth slightly open - you could almost hear a snore on the rasp of the wind. A couple more days left in N.D. and we'll have another state down.     TOP

September 3, 2003

Dale: Watched a hawk today flying into a strong headwind following a huge chisel plow looking for mice it killed or stirred up. It would hover perfectly still like a helicopter, then shoot forward into the wind, stop dead still and hover again - I don't see how they do it. Lot's of water and huge areas of cattails, miles and miles of them - it's duck, goose and cormorant heaven. Also went and looked at a huge wind generator (in Nelson County) - over 200 ft tall tower with 85 foot blades. We went right to the base of the tower and they had a sign with all the stats on it. That was a real treat for me. Someday maybe not in my lifetime, but some day they will be a major source of our energy. My feet have been baptized in the Arctic and Pacific Ocean, rain, snow and puddles, spittle beetle juice and tears of joy, pain and fear. I am awed by what they have done and been through.     TOP

September 4, 2003

Dale: Saw a new one today - guy driving down the road with a newspaper and steering wheel in the left hand, dialing a cell phone with his right - efficiency at it's worst. Also did a TV interview with a guy that stopped yesterday to see what we were doing. Not sure how that will turn out, but will probably never see it. I wasn't really thrilled with how it went, but you never know what they'll use, there was a lot of tape, but probably a minute spot if anything. Had a fish hawk follow me today. Really strange, he would sit on a pole until I was adjacent to it, then followed again, probably for ¾ of a mile or so. It was a very comforting feeling. The last thing before he left he flew ahead a little, made a big circle, came back swung by me again and then left - Spirit of the Wind. Another N.D. police officer stopped - these guys are really on the ball. It's great to see them aware and concerned. Third one in N.D., Montana - 0, Washington - 0, B.C. - 1, Yukon - 0, Alaska - 1, that's the policeman score for the trip.     TOP

September 5, 2003

Dale: Started the day in N.D. and ended it about 10 miles into Minnesota. Walked through residential Grand Forks and business East Grand Forks, visited Cabella's and had "lupper" at a huge Applebee's. Crossed the Red River and from this valley I am going. Had a lady stop and ask if I wanted a ride into Grand Forks, said it was a long ways. I told her I know the distance and had been walking over 4,000 miles. She still insisted it was a long ways to walk into Grand Forks, but finally gave up on giving me a ride and drove off. Got quite hot again, must have been well over 90, which was a shock after a couple really cool weeks. It didn't really get hot until about 5 or so in the afternoon, but was a little two reminiscent of Montana to suit me. Immediately after crossing the Red River into Minnesota, the crops changed to a huge percentage of sugar beets, thousands of acres. A lot of Minnesota is in an ancient lake bed called Agassiz - largest glacial lake in North America. The soil is really black and rich. Actually saw a live frog tonight - it spooked me because it was getting dark and I thought it was a snake - still jittery from Montana. Looking forward to getting acquainted with the Minnesota lakes as N.D. slips into recent memory.     TOP

September 6, 2003

Dale: Past Crookston about 10 miles.     TOP

September 7, 2003

Dale: Day off     TOP

September 8, 2003

Dale: Getting into more trees, less row crops, few cattle - get into the lakes region today at Mentor. Made it to little past Erskine and camped at a little campground on Cameron Lake where supposedly the biggest northern pike in the world was caught - wonder if they checked the Alaska records? Saw a beaver dam - 1st in a long, long time.     TOP

September 9, 2003

Dale: Enjoyed some fresh corn on the cob, vine ripe tomatoes, canteloupe and watermelon - the best food we've had in ages. Had a super strong headwind this morning; was singing "walk on through the wind, walk on through the rain. . ." which turned out to be prophetic, because it poured rain later in the afternoon. First time I've been in full rain gear in a long time. The wind brought in the eastern haze, maybe from Chicago, smog blew in, but it was definitely not clean air. Guess we've had the last of fresh air for a while. Finally got into real forests today - haven't seen anything like it since around East Glacier in Montana or shortly thereafter. There are actually trees lining the edge of the road for the last couple miles coming into Bagley. Walked through McIntosh, home of Paul Bunyan's kid brother Cordwood Pete. Another town - Fossom - towns are getting closer together and larger. I think Bagley has about 1200 or so. Was thinking today about what it's going to be like to finish the walk; get up one day and not be looking at 25 miles of road to do. I'm starting to look forward to it. Body, feet, legs and mind are all aching.     TOP

September 10, 2003

Dale: Grain trucks have already been replaced by log trucks; seems so fast to go from open fields to forest - almost completely wooded now. Face full of wind all evening, rain most of the morning - Bemidji Walmart parking lot tonight.     TOP

September 11, 2003

Dale: I walked by the town Nary wondering how the town got it's name. Maybe because there ain't nary a person there or maybe there ain't nary a reason to live anywhere else. One thing for sure, ain't nary a sign of it on the map. That's a rule of English in case the computer doesn't like it - ain't before nary without exception. On Leech Lake reservation today in the Chippewa National Forest campground tonight at Norway Beach - huge trees - made it through Cass Lake. Crossed the Mississippi River at Lake Bemidji - at its origin.     TOP

September 12, 2003

Dale: Walked about 6 miles or so on the soo-line trail in the a.m. It's an old railroad bed between the highway and the new railroad - nice wood trail, felt like the trails around Dot Lake. I think it ran a lot farther, but it didn't have a 4-wheeler track all the way, so I went back to the highway. We're at Gus's Place on Ball Club Lake at Ball Club.     TOP

September 13, 2003

Dale: Heard someone on the radio this a.m. describe a morning as a bluebird morning' not sure exactly what that is, but I guess it's good. This a.m. for me was probably not best described that way; more like a West Nile morning - swampy, boggy land, rainy, perfect day for mosquitoes. It seemed with each injection and blood extraction, there was a crow piercing the morning with a Ha-Ha you think you're going to make D.C., we got West Nile for you. My reply - I've been bit by every mosquito along the highway from Prudhoe Bay to the Yukon, B.C., Washington, Idaho, Montana, N.D. and ½ of Minnesota, so in the words of another famous American "bring it on". Hopefully the frost will soon send them to their temporary annual dormancy. Signs seen today - a simple 3 inch high about a foot long hand made, painted bright yellow, hanging on a cable across a slightly overgrown driveway in simple black letters - NO. Another handmade sign nailed to a tree by a grapes of wrath with trailer yard, faded white background with a black snarling, lips back, teeth bared, canine blood dripping profusely from each fang; underneath it was the rather unnecessary inscription - DOG. Crossed the Mississippi River again today at a spot that is about the size of the Rockfish River in VA - maybe 15 feet wide. Brought back memories of crossing the Yukon River also at its origin as well as the Yukon River bridge. Country here is very Alaska like - looks like good moose country, but haven't seen any sign of them. Through Bena today, no population listed; maybe it had bena-town. Grand Rapids tonight - will also eventually go through Grand Rapids, Michigan.     TOP

September 14, 2003

Dale: Enjoyed breakfast where they actually know how to cook eggs over easy by Forest Lake, which makes me homesick for our little cabin up the Robertson by our Alaska Forest Lake.     TOP

September 15, 2003

Dale: More bog and swamp land - amazing how the people's habitation sort of disappears in these areas. Found a tiny radio that actually works, plugged the earphones from our CD player into it and now I can walk and have radio if I like.     TOP

September 16, 2003

Dale: Saw a big bull moose this morning driving back to where I stopped walking - nice big rack, fat and healthy. Kept seeing a silver streaky, squiggly pattern on the highway like icing drizzle on a cinnamon roll - finally figured out it was small ½ inch slugs that had come out on the road and dried up in the sun - at the end of each silver road was a tiny dried slug. Was thinking again today about the need for mandatory driver's education for beginning drivers. The system as it is really puts totally untrained inexperienced drivers out there and most of them don't have a clue about defensive driving and basic driving etiquette.     TOP

September 17, 2003

Dale: Took a detour to try and get around Duluth without going all the way through the center - wound up being a little farther than we expected. Spent the night in Carlton in the rest area after looking all over for a state park.     TOP

September 18, 2003

Dale: Had a walk in the park this morning - about 6 miles in Joe Cook State Park - little narrow road with hardly any traffic - oak and maple trees starting to be plentiful - looks almost like VA. Got to try out my up and down hill muscles again after about 1200 miles of flat. Crossed the St. Louis River into Wisconsin - greeted by a simple green sign that said Wisconsin. The bridge across the river on 39 was quite an ordeal. It was a bridge underneath a railroad so the cars and train crossed on the same bridge - very narrow with curves on both ends that said -trucks must not meet vehicles on curve- the five inches between the white line and a concrete wall was filled with ball bearing like metal that had fallen from the hot brakes on the train and had been rounded by cars and knocked to the edge, so I rolled across, rather slipped and slid across - not a pleasant trip - bridge was probably ½ mile long, but seemed like two. After the bridge, about 2 in the afternoon there was a big thunderstorm and it's been raining cats and dogs ever since. Rain gear is getting a good workout! Didn't quite make it back to route 2 - will stay in a state park tomorrow and hope for sunshine tomorrow - back to wishing for sun.     TOP

September 19-October 17, 2003

Journals for these weeks have yet to be transcribed. We hope to have them online soon.     TOP

October 18, 2003

Dale: Got out of the buggy country pretty much yesterday; was surprised how soon it stopped - was in the Amish country for a little over 30 miles, then it just quit. Made it within a couple miles of Hamilton, country is starting to be slightly hilly again, getting ready for the Appalachians. I'm ready for a day off.     TOP

October 20, 2003

Dale: Walked past Martha again this a.m., just completely missed where she was parked. She got lost on a detour around Butler and didn't find me for a couple hours - was nice to have the cell phones. Made it into Ohio the last BIG one - staying in Hicksville tonight just past Newville - you gotta love these town names. Hicksville is actually a very lovely town. Hardees' parking lot tonight.

Martha: Hicksville Hardees' had a hot bingo game going - explained why there were so many cars parked in the parking lot. A nice warm day again - upper 70's.     TOP

October 21, 2003

Dale: Back in flat, flat country again - almost all corn and soybean fields. Not much else going on - seems to be the base of the economy. Did Antwerp and Payne today - both grain towns. Not much shoulder today, but traffic wasn't too bad. I still have to get off into the grass and uneven ground every time I meet someone, so it takes a little more out of you. Tomorrow we'll do some 4 lane on Route 30 with tons of traffic, but wider shoulders.     TOP

October 22, 2003

Dale: Decided not to walk 30 after looking at the traffic a little. It would have been ok to walk except for the annoyance of trucks constant wind splash. Also it would have been difficult for Martha to get off and back on, so we found old route 30 - Lincoln Highway. It put me out in the country with very little traffic and almost no trucks, also I'm getting to see the corn harvest up close, smell the corn dust from the grain bins, hear all the familiar sounds of grain drying etc. Brings back memories of when I was on the dairy. Had a close call with a van that wasn't paying attention and got over to the edge of the shoulder. I didn't see it coming until it was about 50 feet away, but got off into the grass and fortunately it recovered as it went by and just missed dropping into the gravel. Walked through the old downtown district of Van Wert - nice old buildings, first county library built in the U.S., beautiful old building; also the Marsh Foundation Campus - really nice grounds and old building that have been well maintained. Made it into Delphos and had supper with Homer and Jean - they came and found us on their way to Tennessee. Always fun to see familiar faces. Trying out the Delphos Lutheran Church parking lot tonight.     TOP

October 23, 2003

Dale: The Yota refused to start this a.m. - fortunately there was a shop about 3 blocks away that we walked by on our way to a gas station to ask for help. They put a tow strap on it and towed it in and put a fuel pump on it and we were back walking by 11 o'clock. Still managed a little over 20 miles, but had to hoof it steady all the rest of the day. Lots of dogs again since we're out in the country - one particularly large "rottenweiler" crossed over and was growling and looking a little too serious about biting. I had my backpack down so he had to bite it first before me. So far none have put their teeth into it, including a huge St. Bernard that came in my space the other day. Had a dog come across the yard silently on his stomach like he was a cat stalking a bird, but the invisible electric fence stopped him. Stayed in the Beaverdam truck stop parking lot - was weird walking down a little Podunk country road and all at once there were 4 huge truck plazas all in one area, and all packed. I-75 North and South intersects with Route 30 East and West, so it was a truck dam as well as a beaver dam.     TOP

October 24, 2003

Dale: Old friends, Tom and Connie, and boys, Aaron and Nathaniel, from our Lodge days in Alaska came out and bought breakfast for us this a.m. - had a great time reminiscing and visiting over breakfast - more familiar faces, makes the days seem a little shorter and the loneliness more tolerable. Walked a little of 4-lane 30 this a.m., but it just feels too foreign, so went back to the county roads, where I can smell the dirt and other farm smells familiar to me - feels like home - hardly any traffic, almost like walking a bike trail. Saw a kid riding a bicycle down the middle of the road tonight, when a car came from behind, he shifted to the opposite lane and when one came head on he went the other way - a walking technique I haven't tried yet and probably won't even though I probably could on these roads. Conversation with a motorist tonight: "Sir, is there a church around here somewhere?" "I don't know, I'm not from around here, just passing through on a cross country walk." "What, are you nuts or something?" - something like that - Off she went. Traffic was so slow I actually stood in the middle of the road and talked to a guy in a truck for about 10 minutes and never had a vehicle come by - guess I better enjoy it while I can.     TOP

October 25, 2003

Dale: Some rain and thunderstorms - brought the harvest and ground preparation to a halt. This country is so much like eastern Montana and western North Dakota, except for the crops, but it's all crops and very little livestock. When I was growing up in VA, I could never understand how people could live in this flat country, but after spending about 3 months at the speed of foot, I can see how people could love it. It has an openness and peaceful tranquility that grows on you. Visited Swartz Bridge - a little covered bridge out in the middle of nowhere - around Little Sandusky.     TOP

October 27, 2003

Dale: Starting to get out of the flat open land already, roads getting crooked and running into a few rolling hills - have seen some unusual farming operations in Ohio - a large llama or alpaca farm, probably over 100, the most I've seen anywhere, except on the balloon ride in Washington, also a large paddock laid out like a horse farm, but with about 30 St. Bernards. Watched a large herd of Nubian goats one day go to the barn when they saw me - I guess they assumed it was milking time. I noticed something lying in the field that looked like a dead goat and after watching it a while I had about decided it was a piece of trash, but about that time it got up and started frantically looking for the other nannies - turned out it was a huge billy that had fallen so hard asleep he missed the departure of his flock and woke up totally confused - must have had a rough day, poor thing. Galion tonight.     TOP

October 28, 2003

Dale: Last night I had a dog follow me the last 3 miles - stopped about 75% of the cars that came by and people were giving me the evil eye. One guy apologized for yelling "my dog". This morning I got on 97 and was wishing he was around to slow down the traffic - terrible road, no shoulder, steep drop off and too much traffic for the width of road. I decided this morning today if it feels unsafe to walk it is not very safe to drive. Rained most of the day, but was a light sprinkle and I didn't wear rain gear until the end of the day - walking hard and fast I was able to evaporate most of the water with body heat and a little help from the wind. Walked Lexington to Butler on an old railroad trail and spent the night in a parking lot next to the trail - Martha came back to meet me a bunch of times, it really keeps my spirit up when she can come meet me.     TOP

October 29, 2003

Dale: Finally decided to leave 97 and take some back roads - ended up on a dirt road with some fairly steep grades - reminds me an awful lot of Virginia. Followed the Mohican River for a while and went below Loudonville and ended up in Nashville on 39 & 60 - little better road, but still not the greatest. Met up with one of my long lost cousins and was invited to spend the night with them - my mothers' family has its origin in this area. Martha's maiden name (Miller) is also well represented here. One place where Martha was parked there was a Yoder business on one side and a Miller business on the other. Had a fellowship meal at my cousin Cheryl's church and spent a great night at their home with a great breakfast to start the day. Got to see Cheryl's husband, Art's, huge 10 foot replica of a 747 that he will eventually fly with remote control - amazing plane!     TOP

October 30, 2003

Dale: Cheryl came out and walked a couple miles through Millersburg - it's always amazing how fast time goes when you have company. It's also encouraging to have people come out and show their support in this way. Tonight I get to do something really crazy - go out and drive at insane speeds in the middle of traffic for a day or so - will make a quick trip to South Carolina for the wedding of my dear niece - can't miss it; first time for me to be the man of honor.     TOP

November 3, 2003

Dale: Walked through Sugar Creek and New Philadelphia - had a break down again - guess the Delphos fuel pump was faulty because we had to put in another one, which meant we were only able to do about 17 miles today. (Fortunately it was close to an auto repair shop again) Will have to go on route 250 soon - not looking forward to that, but that's the way it'll be from here on in. Feels today even more like the end is near - the body, soul and spirit are begging for it to be over, although I have less physical pain than ever and everything seems to be clicking and working well. I forgot to mention on 10/29 on the back roads, I had 5 dogs come out and surround me. At first there were only two and they were circling looking for an opportunity to grab an ankle. I got out the pepper spray, but didn't have to use it, because the backpack scared them off again. Also on 10/30 I was watching several teams of 4 horses picking corn and as I was looking at one finish up a field my vision was blocked by a huge tourist building/shop of all sorts. I was wondering if that might be relevant to not being able to see the forest for the trees. Am about out of the buggy country - have been in it a couple days now - have walked through 2 of the largest Amish settlements in the country. Some Amish sights and sounds - a little boy making engine noises hot-rodding his bicycle, generator beside an outbuilding powering the washing machine, which isn't allowed in the house, large tractor parked in the bank parking lot, a man hauling his wife to visit the neighbors in a small trailer pulled by a small lawn tractor down a busy highway.     TOP

November 4, 2003

Dale: Started around Uhrichsville and finally got on 250 with tons of trucks and traffic. The traffic backs up because there is no place to pass, so you have no traffic for a while and then about 10 trucks and cars all together. Almost made it into Cadiz, about 3 or so miles out, but should make it into Wheeling tomorrow or at least close. Walked about 10 miles or more today past Tappan Lake - huge lake for Ohio, another lake resulting from a dam. Some guy stopped and waited a while just to see what in the world I was doing and when I told him he wondered if I was protesting something. Beautiful weather in the high 70's again, but they say by Saturday it will only get to 35.     TOP

November 5, 2003

Dale: Rain most of the day - never knew when it was going to stop and start, but it kept doing it all day - cut my miles back to about 23. Lots of hills today, twisting, turning switchbacks, narrow shoulders, some trucks, but not as many as yesterday. I had driven parts of 250 in the 90's, but walking it is a different story, hopefully we get off of it today. Didn't quite make Wheeling, but should get there early in the a.m. Stopped in Colerain tonight, home of Josiah Ask (I think that's the right name) the architect that designed the USS Constitution and Old Ironsides. The end of the slippery slope is in sight, but these last few hundred miles seem to be the slickest part, but then so did 99, Prudhoe Bay and Montana, so I guess it's all been pretty icy even when it was hot.     TOP

November 6, 2003

Dale: Found Old Cadiz Road parallel to 250 and took that into Bridgeport/Wheeling - narrow country road, no traffic, cows, farms on slopes so steep looked like the tractors need one tire bigger than the other to operate. Finally had a dog touch my backpack, though it was friendly - a puppy came out and I thought maybe the pack would send him home, but he just jumped up on it. Another dog surprised me - was tied close to the road and I didn't see him until he came at me and couldn't get my pack off quickly enough - fortunately he hit the end of the cable before he got to me, but I would have been too late had he not been tied - gave my heart a jolt. Routes 88 and 250 have been spooky roads to walk - lots of guard rail with the line either against it or 12 to 24 inches away, but never consistent. Had a truck today cut the curb too close and if I hadn't jumped the rail - watched the rear tires cross the white line and come to the edge of the blacktop - it was so close I got very angry, but it mostly just scared pretty much everything out of me that can get scared out of you. So many little towns I can't remember them all - tonight we're in Limestone. Wheeling was a great town to walk through - crossed the Ohio River on an old suspension bridge with the new one beside it for the interstate and it had about 6 concrete pilings, while the old suspension had one on each side with the entire bridge hanging. The rocks were laid up with hardly any cracks - reminded me of the Wailing Wall. Can't wait to get off 250 - should be in PA soon. Barely got in 20 miles today trying to figure out how to get through Wheeling - one road on our computer route had been closed so we had to find an alternate. I'm not making my 3 mph much these days, just can't develop any kind of rhythm with the narrow roads and traffic patterns.     TOP

November 7, 2003

Dale: Had breakfast at a little café by 250 this a.m. and the waitress said "a little bacon grease ran over and got in with the eggs so they look a little funky". They were actually pretty good - I've seen worse. Had a German shepherd get up slowly without a word and shadow me until I was past his house. He never growled, barked, wagged his tail or anything, just gave me the mental message - if you step in this yard you're mine. We took a back road past Ryerson Station State Park in PA. We're staying there tonight, but are sort of lost. I asked 4 guys (hunters in the park) sitting around a huge bonfire where the main road below the campground came out about 6 or 8 miles from here and none of them knew. Guess they don't qualify as world travelers or PA explorers. The houses in PA are spread out a little more than in W.VA., where they are really close together and close to the road. At one house I was about 15 ft from the mailbox when a lady walked out the front door to mail some letters - her door was about 10 ft from the road and she didn't see me until she was halfway to the mailbox. I watched the panic rise and recede like an ocean wave on the beach as she realized I was there and then realized I wasn't a threat; she managed to get out a Hi as I passed and I gave my usual good morning. Other things close to the road - a woodpile right to the asphalt, and a basketball goal placed on the edge of the road with the road as the court that is on a blind curve. The blind curve did have a sign - children at play!     TOP

November 8, 2003

Dale: Finally figured out how to get back to route 21 from Ryerson - really nice road to walk, no traffic to speak of. Got to 21 and what a relief NO trucks and even a little shoulder widened out to almost a car width by the end of the day. Made it about 9 miles past Waynesburg and went back to spend the day off there. Had done an interview with a paper back in Wheeling and began to think today that maybe they had published it - was getting a lot more horn blowing - the short ones seem to be positive, but the long blasts tend to feel negative, especially if they're accompanied by an extended central finger - they seem not to be an endorsement. I guess we've been fortunate not to have had more of that, because in general the response has been positive - but it only takes one nut.    TOP

November 9, 2003

Dale: Past Waynesburg, but spent the day off there after making it to Khedive. Martha's nephew, Curtis and his wife Jeanette came down from Pittsburgh and fed us breakfast and visited for a while. Was great to see them again.    TOP

November 10, 2003

Dale: Beautiful sunny day; don't know how many more of these we'll get. Pretty uneventful day - made it to Unionville, went a little ways and spent the night in Hopewood. Will do more 4-lane tomorrow on I-40.    TOP

November 11, 2003

Dale: Everything was nice and dry this morning until I popped the hood to check the oil and then it started raining and kept it up pretty much all day. Crossed the Ohio River (Martha: This is actually the Youghiogheny River - runs into the Ohio River in Pittsburgh - it is dammed to make the Y. Lake which I-40 crosses; a long, very old bridge which they are working on replacing) the second time in many days. It really winds around all over the place. The rain is kind of depressing, not doing enough miles, afraid I'm not going to make the target date for D.C. It seems like after 5400 miles I should feel more confident about finishing, but I think I felt more secure at about 3,000. It's kind of like a house of cards, all those miles piled up behind you and it feels like a few more added could bring the whole thing crashing down. Down to less than 200 to go today. Camped just across the river in some park that closes at 9, so we're hoping somebody doesn't come kick us out. Crossed what should be the last major mountain. It was quite a climb in the pouring rain and at the top we had a mountaintop experience that was anything but! It should have been scenic but you couldn't see anything and it was blowing a gale. Also visited Braddock's grave today. Never realized George Washington officiated at his funeral.    TOP

November 12, 2003

Dale: What I thought was the Ohio River turns out to be the Youghiogheny River. Started out in the rain and went back and forth from raining to half raining all day. Turns out there are a lot more mountains to cross. I think I did about 4 or 5 more today - Negro, Windy, Ridge to name a few. Seems all have something to do with Braddock or Washington. Has been interesting reading all the historical sign posts. Also realized I was coming through an area with a lot of family history. Homer called a second cousin, Emily Maust and she contacted us and met us outside of Grantsville. She offered to put us up at the historic Casselman Inn and feed us supper and breakfast. Also, was contacted by a group of brothers - Don, Willis and Wayne. (Willis is married to a 2nd cousin) They invited us to lunch on Keyser's Ridge and also offered a place to stay for the night or the whole weekend. Don had been seriously injured by a drunk driver back in 2000, so was very interested in what we are doing. We are feeling the crunch of winter and time, so will have to pass on some of the offers, but will plan to come back sometime. The walk past Grantsville was beautiful even if it rained - a stone arched bridge over the Casselman River, a huge 4-story stone house that is just amazing - I talked to the guy that lives there and he said it was built in the early 1800's and the roof lines are straight as an arrow. People here have been so wonderful and treated us so well - we will have to come back and visit longer another time. I had been feeling pretty down for a couple days, but the boost and support from everyone here has given me a renewed energy.    TOP

November 13, 2003

Dale: Woke up to a light skiff of snow, had breakfast and met another 1st cousin I hadn't seen in years - my father's oldest brother's youngest child. Emily also came and treated us to breakfast and offered to give us car support for awhile, so we headed out to see a little of Grantsville where my great grandfather is buried and where my mother worked at a children's home before she was married, then resumed walking. By now we were in a horizontal snow storm with winds up to about 50 or 60 mph. Fortunately most of the time it was behind me, but tended to try and make me go faster than what I intended. My windbreaker pockets were filling up with snow it was blowing so hard. I felt like I was the wind's punching bag, as I kept being knocked side to side and forward by intermittent gusts. Still managed to eke out about 17 miles and got within about 3 miles of Cumberland - A day that will live on in infamy or not. Thank goodness for Walmart parking lots - I think we own a small piece of real estate in them by now - we've spent so much time there.    TOP

November 14, 2003

Dale: Made it through Cumberland with a little trouble trying to avoid interstate. Finally just gave up and walked about 4 miles on interstate to get around Cumberland. A little sign at a tiny restaurant - fill your bellies at Ellie's Deli. Emily came out and gave us lunch again today. While she drove ahead looking for a place to eat she stopped at a gas station to ask where a restaurant was and in the process she told them about the walk. One of the guys there had almost lost a brother to alcoholism and wanted to see me. By the time I got there a crowd had gathered - don't know who was incidental or who had been notified and came on purpose, but we got a nice donation from a bunch of them. One guy wanted to say a prayer before we left, so there was a prayer circle in the middle of the gas station store with everything going on around. Made it to a little past Flintstone tonight. Two sisters, Thelma and Alice came to spend a couple days walking - that'll be fun.    TOP

November 15, 2003

Dale: Started out with a nice big hill and ended up climbing hills all day. Had company off and on all day with Alice and Thelma walking and helping me get boosted into this final stretch. Made it into Hancock and will try and pick up the C&O Canal trail there. Did about 25 miles again today - felt good to get back to that after doing 18 to 22 for awhile.    TOP

November 16, 2003

Dale: Alice wanted to walk a while on the C&O canal today, so we did about 11 miles, had lunch and then took the rest of the day off and said goodbye to the sisters two. Really enjoyed having them share that stretch of the trail and had really great weather both days.    TOP

November 17, 2003

Dale: Had some nice long stretches in between parking - one 10 miles and one 12 miles and ended up doing about 24 miles even though we slept in and didn't get started until 9. This trail is a real treat after all the crazy roads I've been on lately. I ended up walking for about 45 minutes after dark tonight - the deer were out in full form - I could hear them skittering through the leaves. I could see two coals glowing in the trail and then they would go out and be replaced by a big white flag. They were snorting and sneezing all over the place, always waiting until I was so close before they moved and then they would get all crazy. Will have to make a 5 mile detour tomorrow on the highway since a stretch of the towpath is washed out - about 88 miles to go to Georgetown Visitors Center.    TOP

November 18, 2003

Dale: Detoured off the C&O about 12 miles or so on rt. 63 and rt. 65 - had sort of prepared myself mentally not to do traffic until D.C., so was rather depressed to do it again. It was a real relief to get back on the towpath at Antietam. Saw lots of war signs from the battle of Antietam, also memorials to different soldiers that had fallen near the road. I was so happy to get back on the C&O, I walked straight through from 12:30 to about 6, about 15 or 16 miles (it was too dark to see the last couple mile markers, will know for sure in the a.m.) Walked a short stretch of the Appalachian Trail - it follows the C&O a little ways at Harper's Ferry. I wouldn't have known it except for a bikers note for a friend duct taped to a post. Hard to express the mix of emotions now that I realize the end is only a couple days away - sort of like the beginning only now I have melancholic memories instead of anticipation, but the excitement and uncertainty are still close to the same. I am preparing myself for the let down of stopping. Last night at the 57 mile mark I knew I had to get to 55 and 2 miles is STILL a long ways!    TOP

November 19, 2003

Martha: Heard "spring peepers" this morning walking to the shower house - felt warm and mist like spring - very strange. Haven't heard spring peepers in a long time - nostalgic. It is very different to drop Dale off and drive by a towpath map to where he is going to be.

Dale: Alcoholic beverages prohibited on the C&O Trail! Overcast all morning, downpour all afternoon - got to see where the old aqueducts across the creeks aren't really functioning all that well anymore. Saw construction on a huge 6-arch aqueduct which has survived attacks during the Civil War, all the floods and river ice. The thing is amazing when you think it was built before cars, trucks and mechanized equipment - I think probably slave labor. Didn't see anybody on the towpath all day except the construction guys on the aqueduct - not too many recreational users in a downpour. Thirty miles from D.C. tonight and except for the planes overhead, you would think you were in the middle of nowhere, but I'm sure that's about to change. We miscalculated the last stretch between parking lots - thought it was a little less then 4 miles, but turned out to be almost 5 - wouldn't have mattered except it was raining and dark the last mile or so, flood waters all around, the fields looked like lakes. We decided to park on the road above the parking lot to sleep since the parking lot was about level with the river. Called the WHITEHOUSE today and was amazed to actually talk to a person and get to the president's appointment person. Probably a long shot, but at least I found out how to try and get to see him - will have to be next October (about as likely as snow in July in D.C., I suppose)    TOP

November 20, 2003

Dale: Beautiful day today - a few more people on the trail. Passed Great Falls and the area where the canal is working - really interesting to see and read some of the history of the canal. Called all the major networks - no luck on national coverage, so it looks like that won't happen. Also the local Anchorage station that has a correspondent in D.C. doesn't answer the phone or return calls from messages, so press and legislative wise it looks like a no show for D.C., so I guess it will be a quiet passage through D.C., but I have the most of the trip at least that I know people heard about the issue. Leigh and Eric came out with their two children, Sarah and Anders and visited awhile - that was a real treat. Also got a visit from the D.C. police, who were a little concerned that we were spending the night at the park, but said they would bend the rules and allow us to stay. That was very kind of them - all my experiences thus far with the police have been very +. Not sure how we'll get to the bay and water - looks like that part of the city may not be safe to walk - guess we'll go as we have - one step at a time - can't believe it is almost over.    TOP

November 21, 2003

Dale: Walked past Georgetown University about 10 a.m. or so - the towpath on the river side suddenly ended at a brick building, then a bridge across to the other side of the canal where the trail continued for a little while between the canal and the city foundation walls. I knew I was near the Georgetown Visitor's Center and that it was not on the towpath, so I took the first set of stairs up to the main part of Georgetown. As I turned off the somewhat secluded and slightly unkempt part of the canal trail, I came face to face with a huge set of glass doors with very ornate brass finishing that was the entrance to a very upscale restaurant - the assault to my senses was such that I was stopped cold in my tracks. After recovering, I proceeded up the stairs where I met a very lovely patron of the restaurant on her way down and asked if she knew where the visitor's center was. She looked for a moment like she was going to ignore me like a beggar on the street, but then gave me directions. I think at first she thought I was a homeless person that lived under a bridge somewhere on the canal. Found the visitor's center and had a really nice visit with the receptionist there. She had her own story pf being married to an alcoholic for 25 years and of people she had known in England that were killed by a drunk driver. Martha, Cindy and children finally found me or I found them and we walked from Georgetown to the Whitehouse where we had a picnic lunch. I tried to get several of the guards to sign a card for a souvenir - one said I'd rather not, another said take a picture or go to the visitor's center. I settle for the signature of a nuclear war protester that has been living on the street in front of the Whitehouse for 23 years - I'm not gonna go there! Finally left to try and navigate the maze around the capitol and the RFK stadium to get out to rt 214, but got a call from our friend Leigh who happened to be in the vicinity, so she came and found me and fed me again (you can always eat when you do 20+ miles) and got me around the capitol building and out East Capitol Street that leads to 214. Cindy came out and met me and got me out close to the beltway - don't know what we would have done without Cindy and Eric's help getting through D.C. has been a real boost to have all this support in D.C. At the end of the day the phone rang and it was Senator Murkowski's office saying that I could meet with the Senator at noon tomorrow if it suited. I can definitely make it suit. That was a great present for the end of the day and the arrival in D.C. I think I still have 25 miles or so to the bay.    TOP

November 22, 2003

Dale: Had some time off this a.m. to recuperate a little and try and prepare myself mentally to meet with one of our Alaska delegation. First time I've done anything like this, so I'm a bit nervous - will just try and be myself and focus on the issues that are at the core of the walk. Noon came very quickly and before I knew it I was engaged in conversation; first with several of the senators aids and then Sen. Murkowski came and joined us. She gave me almost an hour of her time and part of that time was spent being interviewed by her for a program - The Alaska Report - which airs in Alaska. She has been very involved in alcohol related issues, was instrumental in getting an alcohol tax increase in Alaska in the senate there and stiffer penalties for DUI's. It was so great to be able to share some ideas and get feed back from her that was so positive. I am very grateful for the time she took out of her schedule to see us. Walked a few more miles today, but feel almost as tired as if I had walked the whole day - hopefully the bay tomorrow.    TOP

November 23, 2003

Dale: Got a good early start - it was very foggy until almost 10. Eric took me out to where I had left off and walked with me most of the day. Martha and Cindy came later for my arrival at the Bay. The water was a little chilly, but nothing like the Arctic. So the walking is done, the miles covered, the work only begun. No Moe road ahead. END OF THE ROAD

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